Luthier friends need your advice
- Narsh
- Reactions:
- Posts: 844
- Joined: Thu May 28, 2020 11:18 am
- Location: Parkland Florida
- Gearlist: Main Guitars: Kiesel Aries 7, Kiesel SCB6H,
Main Bass: Yamaha TRBX305
Main Amps: Kemper Profiler, AxeFX II XL+, Neural DSP Parallaxe
Recording: MAC,Reaper, Focusrite 8i8 Gen3, JBL LSR308
And much, much, more... - Contact:
How difficult/costly would it be to repair this?
Check out my Music: https://soundcloud.com/romeroenr
- tonebender
- Reactions:
- Posts: 1515
- Joined: Sun May 31, 2020 8:39 am
- Location: Wheremyhathangs, FL
- Gearlist: Fav: Gibson LP and Gibson Goldtone Amp. Other gear: Gretsch, Peavey, Taylor and more.
I guesstimate $100. Fill the chip, sand it smooth. paint, clear coat and buff. Not a lot of time involved for each step but there is cure period for each so it will take several days. I have done many build including the finishes, setups, repairs, etc., but I am not by any stretch a luthier. Back in the day word was out and I started getting calls but after a few jobs I decided I did not want to pursue it.
"Will follow through with a transaction when the terms are agreed upon" almightybunghole
If there is a good thing to be had, the chip appears to be within the area of a solid color, so blending should not be necessary...
Delightful mix of insolence, arrogance and narcissism
Proud RINO trapped in a heavy metal chassis
Growing up, only kid in the neighborhood with an Uncle Ahkbar
Proud RINO trapped in a heavy metal chassis
Growing up, only kid in the neighborhood with an Uncle Ahkbar
- andrewsrea
- Reactions:
- Posts: 1378
- Joined: Wed May 27, 2020 4:43 pm
- Location: Lake Saint Louis, MO
- Gearlist: 28 Guitars: (2) basses, (2) acoustics, (3) hollow bodies, (3) Semi hollow, (1) Double-neck, (17) Solid-bodies
That repair is called a 'ding' repair, which typically involves clearing the lose original finish, swelling any compressed wood, matching base color and drop-filling the crater with minimal witness lines. I've done quite a few and they are tedious, more so on the edge, as you need to make a form that the drop-fill material pools instead of running down the side. Edges are also tough, as it is where the finish is the lightest and is easy to sand through. I typically spend 2 to 6 hours per ding, then an hour blending and polishing the original finish.
I would normally charge $150 plus shipping for a single edge ding. AGF friends' price would be $50, plus shipping.
I wish I took a 'before' picture of this guitar, as I took it on trade for amp work and it was covered with dings. @golem may remember it before I restored it, but it was a wreck. Perhaps 30 in total. Now it only has one spot which you can tell there was a ding, as the stain did not take and it appears lighter (on the back, near the rear edge - sorry no pics). But the rest of the guitar would defy you to find where the dings were. I did not refinish it, this is all drop-fill technique.
I also used the same technique on this headstock repair to hide the cracks from being visible from 3' or greater distance.
Before: After:
I would normally charge $150 plus shipping for a single edge ding. AGF friends' price would be $50, plus shipping.
I wish I took a 'before' picture of this guitar, as I took it on trade for amp work and it was covered with dings. @golem may remember it before I restored it, but it was a wreck. Perhaps 30 in total. Now it only has one spot which you can tell there was a ding, as the stain did not take and it appears lighter (on the back, near the rear edge - sorry no pics). But the rest of the guitar would defy you to find where the dings were. I did not refinish it, this is all drop-fill technique.
I also used the same technique on this headstock repair to hide the cracks from being visible from 3' or greater distance.
Before: After:
Live life to the fullest! - Rob