Whats on your work bench?
- Rollin Hand
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- Joined: Wed May 27, 2020 1:38 pm
I was able to pull out the post bushings, which are tied together by a metal crosspiece, quite easily. The posts and crosspieces on the low B side seemed to be pushed forward a tad. As there were only pickguard screws holding the bushing crosspiece in, I have some new, longer stainless screws on order that will hopefully keep things more solidly achored. Some glue may also be added around the bushings for structural stability.
I may sell this one, so I am hoping to get away with spending very little money on this fix.
While I am at it, I will replace the pots, as they aren't really good, and I have some lying around. And maaaaaybe go back to the original pickups.
"I'm not a sore loser. It's just that I prefer to win, and when I don't, I get furious."
- Ron Swanson
- Ron Swanson
- Rollin Hand
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- Joined: Wed May 27, 2020 1:38 pm
Well, that got out of hand....
I had some cheap stainless saddles lying around that didn't work on the guitar I bought them for (too tall). BUUUUUUT, they fit the Scope perfectly. I just had to order one extra to put them all on the trem.
As part of the process, I decided to try an experiment and add one of the titanium string blocks that don't work on a Floyd to the last saddle. The D string. Wouldn't you know it, the D is now the loudest string, and unlike with the Floyd, it seems to hold tune. So, the next string change will also see me adding the Ti blocks.
I put the longer screws in the bushing bracket, and put better screws in to hold the nut. The result? MUCH enhanced tuning stability.
Now I just need to sort out the pots. Full-sized ones don't seem to fit, so maybe find better small pots....
I had some cheap stainless saddles lying around that didn't work on the guitar I bought them for (too tall). BUUUUUUT, they fit the Scope perfectly. I just had to order one extra to put them all on the trem.
As part of the process, I decided to try an experiment and add one of the titanium string blocks that don't work on a Floyd to the last saddle. The D string. Wouldn't you know it, the D is now the loudest string, and unlike with the Floyd, it seems to hold tune. So, the next string change will also see me adding the Ti blocks.
I put the longer screws in the bushing bracket, and put better screws in to hold the nut. The result? MUCH enhanced tuning stability.
Now I just need to sort out the pots. Full-sized ones don't seem to fit, so maybe find better small pots....
"I'm not a sore loser. It's just that I prefer to win, and when I don't, I get furious."
- Ron Swanson
- Ron Swanson
Doesn't get any more 70's than these.
2 speaker columns that went with a 100w tube PA head. Qty. 4 speakers each, 8" CTS from 1973. The thing is, they are 32 ohms each, all 4 in parallel. Got them cheap, 1 speaker is bad, damaged cone, unrepairable, another i found has a tear might be able to patch it. I actually just wanted them for the speakers. I have 2 tweed Champ chassis and 2 turret boards and i have a pair of output transformers that have 4, 8, 16, 32 ohm taps.
Guy threw in a Sunn 12 channel powered mixer for free, not working. I may strip that for parts.
Seems the prices for Fender tweed cabinets has gone up a lot. John Mergili used to make me 5F1 and 5E3 tweed cabinets any color or options i wanted for a very good price, he longer makes cabinets so i am out of luck.
I am tempted to flip these on the side and make a high powered champ driving 4 speakers, yes odd but different. Handle is already on the long side. Will take some pictures of my ideas over the weekend.
Anyone knows who makes fender style tweed cabinets for a decent price let me know. I also have a old cabinet that needs to be recovered. A few people i contacted on Reverb said they no longer make/recover cabinets.
2 speaker columns that went with a 100w tube PA head. Qty. 4 speakers each, 8" CTS from 1973. The thing is, they are 32 ohms each, all 4 in parallel. Got them cheap, 1 speaker is bad, damaged cone, unrepairable, another i found has a tear might be able to patch it. I actually just wanted them for the speakers. I have 2 tweed Champ chassis and 2 turret boards and i have a pair of output transformers that have 4, 8, 16, 32 ohm taps.
Guy threw in a Sunn 12 channel powered mixer for free, not working. I may strip that for parts.
Seems the prices for Fender tweed cabinets has gone up a lot. John Mergili used to make me 5F1 and 5E3 tweed cabinets any color or options i wanted for a very good price, he longer makes cabinets so i am out of luck.
I am tempted to flip these on the side and make a high powered champ driving 4 speakers, yes odd but different. Handle is already on the long side. Will take some pictures of my ideas over the weekend.
Anyone knows who makes fender style tweed cabinets for a decent price let me know. I also have a old cabinet that needs to be recovered. A few people i contacted on Reverb said they no longer make/recover cabinets.
AGF refugee
Got a 490R to pair up with the 490T I recently put in my Epi G400 SG.
But, the legs are too long / the neck cavity is too shallow.
First crack at freehand router. Practiced on scrap, came out well.
Touched up the shielding paint, but not sure the existing paint is conductive, and there is no ground but oh well.
Somewhere along the way the edge of the pickguard chipped; que black sharpie and move on.
Like the pair a lot.
But, the legs are too long / the neck cavity is too shallow.
First crack at freehand router. Practiced on scrap, came out well.
Touched up the shielding paint, but not sure the existing paint is conductive, and there is no ground but oh well.
Somewhere along the way the edge of the pickguard chipped; que black sharpie and move on.
Like the pair a lot.
Old AGF since Feb. 2015; refugee of the Great MOMO Purge of May 2020.
Just starting to get back into things since my dad passed mid March.
Finally got around to installing Gretsch Filtertron in bridge of my AS73.
Got the pickup and HB adapter plate back in Dec. 2021.
I've had the guts out and fished them back in 4 or so times now, pretty good at it now.
I also converted the RR JCM 800 Micro amp to from 12au7 power section to EF80.
Like it a lot better so far.
Finally got around to installing Gretsch Filtertron in bridge of my AS73.
Got the pickup and HB adapter plate back in Dec. 2021.
I've had the guts out and fished them back in 4 or so times now, pretty good at it now.
I also converted the RR JCM 800 Micro amp to from 12au7 power section to EF80.
Like it a lot better so far.
Old AGF since Feb. 2015; refugee of the Great MOMO Purge of May 2020.
Pentode Yes, though the screen voltage is tapped off the B+ / plate and only dropped across 1K, instead of an additional node.
Cathode bypass cap. No.
I did experiment with the cathode bypass cap with the 12au7; I may try it, but right now I'm just wringing out the available tones.
I still am considering a switched SLP / JCM mode to switch the cold clipper out or in.
Or, I may build a JTM45 or SLP based circuit with EF80 output.
Old AGF since Feb. 2015; refugee of the Great MOMO Purge of May 2020.
I took the plunge into fretwork today! The Firebird I acquired a little while ago had pretty bad fret sprout; I tried sealing it in a plastic bag with a damp sponge for several days, but that helped only a little.
I had a StewMac gift certificate, so I got myself a Rough Fret Smooth & Shine Kit, and from Greschler's I picked up a good 8" flat file.
And then I watched a ton of videos and read a ton of forums and articles.
Today I finally had a long unbroken stretch of free time, so I carefully put file(s) to frets.
And you know what? It actually wasn't hard at all. I'm not going to say I did a masterful job, but the frets are about a million times better than they were before, and I put not a single nick or scratch in the guitar. I started by carefully taping off the treble side of the neck, and then delicately filing the frets back flush with the flat file, then I adjusted the bevel with the flat file, then took the dressing file and fixed up the ends. Then I used the Micro-mesh pads and polished the ends, then I took the touch up stick and polished the whole frets (in retrospect, I probably should have used those tools the other way around, but whatever, it worked), and then for a finale I even polished the fingerboard itself.
Observations: probably the best piece of advice I saw anywhere was "Approach it as a Zen exercise." It probably helps that I like doing repetitive mechanical tasks where you can see results as you go. Having plenty of time and not rushing was critical. After all, you can always file more, but it's really hard to unfile something you went too far on. Also, having good tools makes a huge difference. If you have a reasonably large flat file that rides on multiple frets at once, it's almost hard to see how you could damage the edge of the fingerboard - it's pretty easy to tell if the file is riding on metal or wood from sound and feel, and you can stop every couple of passes to feel how things are going. The fret end dressing file also makes it hard to damage the fingerboard if you're at all careful, since it's got a flat smooth side and a flat slightly rounded side, either of which you can use to face in to the fingerboard. When I did the bass side of the frets, I didn't even bother taping anything, that's how safe I felt by that point. Also, you're taking off what, 1/32" of an inch at most of metal? I felt like the tape could actually start to get in the way. And if you do make a scratch, the micro-mesh pads go from 1500 to 12000, so unless you make a big gouge, I think you're pretty safe in your ability to polish it out.
Now I'm just wishing I'd learned about this decades ago, because damn these frets feel nice.
I had a StewMac gift certificate, so I got myself a Rough Fret Smooth & Shine Kit, and from Greschler's I picked up a good 8" flat file.
And then I watched a ton of videos and read a ton of forums and articles.
Today I finally had a long unbroken stretch of free time, so I carefully put file(s) to frets.
And you know what? It actually wasn't hard at all. I'm not going to say I did a masterful job, but the frets are about a million times better than they were before, and I put not a single nick or scratch in the guitar. I started by carefully taping off the treble side of the neck, and then delicately filing the frets back flush with the flat file, then I adjusted the bevel with the flat file, then took the dressing file and fixed up the ends. Then I used the Micro-mesh pads and polished the ends, then I took the touch up stick and polished the whole frets (in retrospect, I probably should have used those tools the other way around, but whatever, it worked), and then for a finale I even polished the fingerboard itself.
Observations: probably the best piece of advice I saw anywhere was "Approach it as a Zen exercise." It probably helps that I like doing repetitive mechanical tasks where you can see results as you go. Having plenty of time and not rushing was critical. After all, you can always file more, but it's really hard to unfile something you went too far on. Also, having good tools makes a huge difference. If you have a reasonably large flat file that rides on multiple frets at once, it's almost hard to see how you could damage the edge of the fingerboard - it's pretty easy to tell if the file is riding on metal or wood from sound and feel, and you can stop every couple of passes to feel how things are going. The fret end dressing file also makes it hard to damage the fingerboard if you're at all careful, since it's got a flat smooth side and a flat slightly rounded side, either of which you can use to face in to the fingerboard. When I did the bass side of the frets, I didn't even bother taping anything, that's how safe I felt by that point. Also, you're taking off what, 1/32" of an inch at most of metal? I felt like the tape could actually start to get in the way. And if you do make a scratch, the micro-mesh pads go from 1500 to 12000, so unless you make a big gouge, I think you're pretty safe in your ability to polish it out.
Now I'm just wishing I'd learned about this decades ago, because damn these frets feel nice.
- Rollin Hand
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Finally got the screws in for my Eart headless. Given that the frets are stainless, I restrung with Ernie Ball Cobalts, 09-42, as I felt the tension was a little high before. Got it all together and.....holy schnikes. The action is a smidge low, but the sustain is breathtaking. Through a modeler, it was acting like it wanted to feed back, when that isn't possible. Seriously impressed with it now.
And it makes me wonder what a higher-end headless can do.
And it makes me wonder what a higher-end headless can do.
"I'm not a sore loser. It's just that I prefer to win, and when I don't, I get furious."
- Ron Swanson
- Ron Swanson
I love the Cobalts. I don't even care that they annihilate frets, that's what fret tools are for. Lemme know if they do any damage to the stainless, I've been considering the upgrade.Rollin Hand wrote: ↑Sat May 07, 2022 7:22 pm Finally got the screws in for my Eart headless. Given that the frets are stainless, I restrung with Ernie Ball Cobalts, 09-42, as I felt the tension was a little high before. Got it all together and.....holy schnikes. The action is a smidge low, but the sustain is breathtaking. Through a modeler, it was acting like it wanted to feed back, when that isn't possible. Seriously impressed with it now.
And it makes me wonder what a higher-end headless can do.
"What is this place? Where am I?"
- Rollin Hand
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My biggest issue with the Cobalts is what they do to my index fingernail on my right hand. I sometimes lead with it (working on not doing that), and the cobalts REALLY wear down the nail.rrobbone wrote: ↑Tue May 10, 2022 1:52 pmI love the Cobalts. I don't even care that they annihilate frets, that's what fret tools are for. Lemme know if they do any damage to the stainless, I've been considering the upgrade.Rollin Hand wrote: ↑Sat May 07, 2022 7:22 pm Finally got the screws in for my Eart headless. Given that the frets are stainless, I restrung with Ernie Ball Cobalts, 09-42, as I felt the tension was a little high before. Got it all together and.....holy schnikes. The action is a smidge low, but the sustain is breathtaking. Through a modeler, it was acting like it wanted to feed back, when that isn't possible. Seriously impressed with it now.
And it makes me wonder what a higher-end headless can do.
"I'm not a sore loser. It's just that I prefer to win, and when I don't, I get furious."
- Ron Swanson
- Ron Swanson
- Mr. Leyvatone
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- Joined: Wed Jun 10, 2020 7:58 pm
- Location: Seattle
- Gearlist: 5 Agiles, 5 SX, assorted other guitars and gear.
I'm painting my SX Hawk black! I'm intentionally keeping this one kind of simple and relatively low-effort to see how it goes and if I can get a good finish without too much fancy stuff. The guitar was natural before, albeit with a very thick and glossy clearcoat. I did not try to remove the entire clearcoat, just knocked off the shine with 220 grit paper before using tack cloth to remove all the dust. (400 would probably have worked better and left fewer scratches, TBH.) The paint is Rustoleum "Painter's Touch 2x Ultra Cover Paint + Primer" courtesy of the local hardware store.
I put on the first set of coats yesterday, since we had some decent spraying weather, and it went pretty well. No runs, and the paint adhered very well. I sprayed with the body held horizontally, which I think works better for avoiding runs. The biggest nuisance is that there is so much crap in the air where I live that it's almost impossible not to get dust and crud in the finish as it's drying, so I have to sand some of that out before re-coating. But overall I'm pretty happy with it so far.
I put on the first set of coats yesterday, since we had some decent spraying weather, and it went pretty well. No runs, and the paint adhered very well. I sprayed with the body held horizontally, which I think works better for avoiding runs. The biggest nuisance is that there is so much crap in the air where I live that it's almost impossible not to get dust and crud in the finish as it's drying, so I have to sand some of that out before re-coating. But overall I'm pretty happy with it so far.
Finally got around to replacing the licensed Floyd on my Jackson Dinky with a Gotoh 1996 I bought at least a year ago, maybe almost 2.
Ends up I didnt have to route the back of the cavity as I thought I would.
I kept the original posts and bushings.
Hard to see in the pics; the first is the Jackson and the last 2 the Gotoh.
Works great, stays in tune much better now.
The knife edges on the Jackson one are noticeably nicked / damaged.
I also had a problem when I did the fret level a few years ago- seems the highest few were really high and I didnt go all the way.
I think it has a slight hump or "ski jump".
So, I just ramped down the highest 5 or so - mainly 22,23, and 24 and its good.
The pic is before crowning, etc.
Ends up I didnt have to route the back of the cavity as I thought I would.
I kept the original posts and bushings.
Hard to see in the pics; the first is the Jackson and the last 2 the Gotoh.
Works great, stays in tune much better now.
The knife edges on the Jackson one are noticeably nicked / damaged.
I also had a problem when I did the fret level a few years ago- seems the highest few were really high and I didnt go all the way.
I think it has a slight hump or "ski jump".
So, I just ramped down the highest 5 or so - mainly 22,23, and 24 and its good.
The pic is before crowning, etc.
Old AGF since Feb. 2015; refugee of the Great MOMO Purge of May 2020.
- solteroblues
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- Joined: Thu May 28, 2020 2:57 pm
So here's my first attempt at building a guitar from scratch with valuable wood. I can't leave well enough alone with the staining, though. I keep seeing spots that I want to go back over, this is turning out to be much darker than I intended, but oh well...
- Partscaster
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- Location: Mars: Sector 6
that looks awesome.solteroblues wrote: ↑Tue Jun 14, 2022 3:58 pm So here's my first attempt at building a guitar from scratch with valuable wood. I can't leave well enough alone with the staining, though. I keep seeing spots that I want to go back over, this is turning out to be much darker than I intended, but oh well...
"The man that hath no music in himself, nor is not moved with concord of sweet sounds, is fit for treasons, stratagems, and spoils. The motions of his spirit are dull as night, and his affections dark as Erebus. Let no such man be trusted."
- Partscaster
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- Location: Mars: Sector 6
thats a cool looking black. makes me think a black neck would look cool too, in a stealth sort of way.glasshand wrote: ↑Mon May 30, 2022 10:03 am I'm painting my SX Hawk black! I'm intentionally keeping this one kind of simple and relatively low-effort to see how it goes and if I can get a good finish without too much fancy stuff. The guitar was natural before, albeit with a very thick and glossy clearcoat. I did not try to remove the entire clearcoat, just knocked off the shine with 220 grit paper before using tack cloth to remove all the dust. (400 would probably have worked better and left fewer scratches, TBH.) The paint is Rustoleum "Painter's Touch 2x Ultra Cover Paint + Primer" courtesy of the local hardware store.
I put on the first set of coats yesterday, since we had some decent spraying weather, and it went pretty well. No runs, and the paint adhered very well. I sprayed with the body held horizontally, which I think works better for avoiding runs. The biggest nuisance is that there is so much crap in the air where I live that it's almost impossible not to get dust and crud in the finish as it's drying, so I have to sand some of that out before re-coating. But overall I'm pretty happy with it so far.
PXL_20220529_200015220.MP.jpg
"The man that hath no music in himself, nor is not moved with concord of sweet sounds, is fit for treasons, stratagems, and spoils. The motions of his spirit are dull as night, and his affections dark as Erebus. Let no such man be trusted."
- Rollin Hand
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That's beautiful. I wouldn't change it at all.solteroblues wrote: ↑Tue Jun 14, 2022 3:58 pm So here's my first attempt at building a guitar from scratch with valuable wood. I can't leave well enough alone with the staining, though. I keep seeing spots that I want to go back over, this is turning out to be much darker than I intended, but oh well...
"I'm not a sore loser. It's just that I prefer to win, and when I don't, I get furious."
- Ron Swanson
- Ron Swanson
I put on another set of coats after sanding back the dust nibs, and it's coming out pretty well, although it got even more dust nibs the second time than it did the first. It is a touch orange-peel-y as well, but I think wet-sanding with 800 should take care of that before I go on to the clear coat. The hardest part, for me, has been applying the paint completely evenly; I think I have a tendency to put it on a little dry, out of fear of runs.Partscaster wrote: ↑Tue Jun 14, 2022 7:04 pm thats a cool looking black. makes me think a black neck would look cool too, in a stealth sort of way.
I do like a painted neck and headstock! I think for this one I'm going to leave it as-is, though - firstly, because it reduces the amount of work and secondly because I might end up replacing the neck at some point anyway.
- solteroblues
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Thanks. It was supposed to be a tiger eye, and I had practiced on scrap wood and got a beautiful copper color, but on the actual body it kept coming out uglier brown, so I kept adding red to get it more red than brown, then I'd add more orange and yellow... my yellow "glow" center shrank to nearly nothing lolRollin Hand wrote: ↑Wed Jun 15, 2022 9:59 amThat's beautiful. I wouldn't change it at all.solteroblues wrote: ↑Tue Jun 14, 2022 3:58 pm So here's my first attempt at building a guitar from scratch with valuable wood. I can't leave well enough alone with the staining, though. I keep seeing spots that I want to go back over, this is turning out to be much darker than I intended, but oh well...
- Rollin Hand
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No matter what, it's a beaut.
"I'm not a sore loser. It's just that I prefer to win, and when I don't, I get furious."
- Ron Swanson
- Ron Swanson
- andrewsrea
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- Location: Lake Saint Louis, MO
- Gearlist: 28 Guitars: (2) basses, (2) acoustics, (3) hollow bodies, (3) Semi hollow, (1) Double-neck, (17) Solid-bodies
Wow!solteroblues wrote: ↑Tue Jun 14, 2022 3:58 pm So here's my first attempt at building a guitar from scratch with valuable wood. I can't leave well enough alone with the staining, though. I keep seeing spots that I want to go back over, this is turning out to be much darker than I intended, but oh well...
Live life to the fullest! - Rob
It's more like what's finally OFF my workbench (i.e. kitchen table). It started out simply enough - upgrade the pickups in an AD-3200MCC with a set of Seymour Duncan Saturday Night Specials. However, after a long frustrating sequence of wiring issues primarily due to carelessness, I forced myself after several months to sit down and figure things out which I finally did tonight. One pickup swap down, about six dozen more to go...
Delightful mix of insolence, arrogance and narcissism
Proud RINO trapped in a heavy metal chassis
Growing up, only kid in the neighborhood with an Uncle Ahkbar
Proud RINO trapped in a heavy metal chassis
Growing up, only kid in the neighborhood with an Uncle Ahkbar