Mosstone Flame-caster Tele

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Mossman
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After applying a total of six coats of sanding sealer, it's time for the moment of truth. Will this 3M tape disappoint me like every other solvent resistant "painter's tape" I've tried so far??

Hells no! This tape is frickin' awesome! It left a razor-sharp line with no leaks whatsoever, even in the couple of spots where I had to over-lap the tape ends. And I slathered the sealer on pretty heavy, too.

tape reveal 1.jpg
tape reveal 3.jpg
tape reveal 4.jpg
tape reveal 5.jpg

To be honest, even regular blue painter's tape can hold up to poly. That's usually what I use to protect a Rosewood fretboard when I'm spraying the neck, and I think I'd get similar results if I used it with that lacquer sealer, but I didn't want to take any chances. Where most tape fails, though, is with solvent-based paints and dyes. Regular painter's tape, or "Frog tape" is fine if you're painting your kitchen with latex paint, but it's no bueno for any paint with solvents in it. The main beauty of this vinyl tape is its flexibility around curves, and you can reposition it easily without affecting adhesion. I think the adhesive is some kind of gel, or something.

My order of parts from Philadelphia Luthier Tools came in, as well as a pickguard that I ordered from the Stratosphere, so I did a dry-fit to make sure everything lined up correctly. The tricky thing about Telecasters is that the pickguard has to fit the neck pocket and pickup route, as well as trapping the bridge and control plate, while matching the curve of the horn, leaving an even "reveal" all the way around. There's a lot of opportunities for something to be off. Especially when you're using parts that all come from different places.

This looks like it'll work.

dry fit.jpg

Though I think I'll have to remove a little wood from the pickup cavity.

pickup rout.jpg

Now I just have to sand off all the errant sealer that made its way onto the top. I'm not sure if I want to do it by hand with a sanding block, or if I want to use the semi-orbital sander. With the sander, there will be less of a chance of rolling over the edge, but I feel a little uncomfortable using a power tool for finesse work. Feels like over-kill.
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Mossman
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I was thinking about "sun" names again last night and doing some mock-ups to see what it would look like, when a name occurred to me that I liked for this. I feel like there might be a car with this name, but I don't really care. I like the way it sounds:

name 0.jpg

It's Latin... It means: "of the sun". :D
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ID10t
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Mossman wrote: Wed Nov 03, 2021 8:56 pm I was thinking about "sun" names again last night and doing some mock-ups to see what it would look like, when a name occurred to me that I liked for this. I feel like there might be a car with this name, but I don't really care. I like the way it sounds:


name 0.jpg


It's Latin... It means: "of the sun". :D
I like it, but? How about a play on words and call it "Soularis"?
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tobijohn
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I'm sticking with "Bob"...
Delightful mix of insolence, arrogance and narcissism
Proud RINO trapped in a heavy metal chassis
Growing up, only kid in the neighborhood with an Uncle Ahkbar
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Tiga
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This is awesome - watching with great interest! So did you just put sanding sealer on the top? Thanks!
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Mossman
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Tiga wrote: Thu Nov 04, 2021 8:29 am This is awesome - watching with great interest! So did you just put sanding sealer on the top? Thanks!
No. I just put it around the edge of the top to protect it from the dye.
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Tiga
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Mossman wrote: Thu Nov 04, 2021 10:27 am
Tiga wrote: Thu Nov 04, 2021 8:29 am This is awesome - watching with great interest! So did you just put sanding sealer on the top? Thanks!
No. I just put it around the edge of the top to protect it from the dye.
Ok - (i went back and re-read what you wrote earlier) I get it now ( I'm a little slow today). Yeah I would think taping the top to get that little bit to show evenly would be extremely difficult. It's a shame they don't make a pin striping tape that's pre-folded dead center that you could use to equally cover the top and sides, but even then i would think it would be hard to keep it even. Also you'd have to rely solely on the tape to keep the dye out. Good luck on this one it's going to be great!
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Mossman
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Tiga wrote: Thu Nov 04, 2021 10:40 pm
Mossman wrote: Thu Nov 04, 2021 10:27 am
Tiga wrote: Thu Nov 04, 2021 8:29 am This is awesome - watching with great interest! So did you just put sanding sealer on the top? Thanks!
No. I just put it around the edge of the top to protect it from the dye.
Ok - (i went back and re-read what you wrote earlier) I get it now ( I'm a little slow today). Yeah I would think taping the top to get that little bit to show evenly would be extremely difficult. It's a shame they don't make a pin striping tape that's pre-folded dead center that you could use to equally cover the top and sides, but even then i would think it would be hard to keep it even. Also you'd have to rely solely on the tape to keep the dye out. Good luck on this one it's going to be great!
Well, a crease exactly down the center of the tape wouldn't have helped me, because I wasn't trying to cover the edge of the top with tape, I was creating a stencil so I could apply sanding sealer all around the edge without getting any on the Alder below.

Image

It's the sanding sealer that's going to protect the wood from the dye, not the tape. I also wanted to mask the top, so that the sanding sealer could continue over the edge, onto the top and cover about 1/16" perimeter around the body, so when it was finished, you would see a thin, white border when the guitar is viewed straight-on, like with real binding. But I couldn't maintain a consistent, 1/16" distance from the edge all the way around, and through all the curves, and it would have looked wonky in spots after the dye was applied, so I decided to abandon that idea and just worry about the side, and sand off whatever sealer made it to the top (like in that lower portion near my thumb). I used a block, so it didn't touch the radius.
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Mossman
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The neck came in today from the Stratosphere. Looks great. I think WD is going to be my new, go-to source for licensed necks. These are indistinguishable from Allparts necks, and I don't have to settle for era-correct "features". It seems like every time I see an Allparts neck that I like, there's something in the specs that turns me off. Like a 7.25" radius, or truss rod access at the heel, or a 'U' shaped profile. This has a 12" radius fretboard, 22 frets, and a modern 'C' profile, with the truss rod at the headstock.

WD neck.jpg

Some interesting grain on the headstock...

WD headstock.jpg

and all down the fretboard...

WD fretboard.jpg

and the back...

WD neck back.jpg

I was kinda expecting a skunk stripe, though. The fretboard is glued on so there's no real reason for it, but when I see a Maple fretboard I expect to see a skunk stripe on the back... Hell, even Fender puts a skunk stripe in necks with a Rosewood (or whatever) fretboard. Oh well, it's not a deal breaker. :)
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Tiga
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I used a WD neck from Stratosphere on my barncaster - really like it. It was a real bargain.
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Mossman
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Tiga wrote: Sat Nov 06, 2021 2:35 pm I used a WD neck from Stratosphere on my barncaster - really like it. It was a real bargain.
I used to swear by Allparts necks, but I actually like the last two WD necks I got better. I used to be willing to accept the minor inconveniences of Allparts' vintage specs because of the price, but WD prices are about the same. Now that I think of it, I don't think Allparts makes any necks with modern specs.
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Mossman
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Well, I just found out that the guy who's been making my water-slide decals for the last five years or so (Mitch), is no longer in business. I had a feeling this day would come. His wife had been fighting cancer for a while, and the last time he made decals for me, he told me she wasn't doing well, but he was grateful to have something to work on to keep his mind off of it. We had developed a rapport over the years, and often had lengthy conversations in PMs, so this is a bit sad for me. I only ever communicated with him through Etsy, so I can't even offer my condolences... As belated as they may be. I hope he's doing alright. He's a good guy. He always went the extra mile with every decal.

So that meant I had to find someone else to make the decals for this project. Not something I was looking forward to, as it's hard to find a good decal guy who can do metallic inks, and does custom work (not just offering a short selection of fonts and layouts). It's even harder to find someone who actually cares about giving you what you asked for. Frankly, most of the decal guys I encountered before I found Mitch were flat-out dicks, who just want to get your money as quickly as possible, and routinely disregard any and all instructions you give them... Sometimes, they don't even bother to show you a proof, and just print and ship the decals out to you, then they get all pissy at you when you tell them it's not right.

Well, this time was no exception. I found this guy on ebay. One of maybe two sellers who could do what I needed. He even stated in his listing that he would show a proof of the decal before printing, so I contacted him to ask if he had the font (Magneto) that I needed, and sent him the mock-up that I posted above. He said he had the font, and could reproduce the logo, so I placed the order and sent him a note telling him that he would have to vertically stretch the Magneto font to match the relative proportions of the example I gave him. He replied by telling me he's had that font for many years and he knows what he's doing.

“Ok”, I thought... "I'll just wait until he shows me the proof", which I expected today. Well, this morning, I got a notification from ebay saying that my item had shipped! I contacted the seller and asked him why he went ahead and printed and shipped the decals without showing me a proof first, and he said: “I gave you what you asked for”, and attached this:

Image

This is what I specifically did NOT ask for, and when I responded by reminding him of the instructions I gave him, he just said: "That's the same font style you sent a picture of".

So now I'm assuming this guy is being deliberately obtuse, and I'm talking to a brick wall here, but this is the last response I gave him:

"Yes, it is, and I specifically said that the Magneto font is too squat, and it might need to be stretched to match the relative proportions, and asked you to modify the font to match the example I gave you. If you misunderstood me, showing me a proof would have a been a great way to clear this up. I worked in the printing industry for 25 years, and in that industry you NEVER go ahead with the print until you get the OK from the client first, no matter how sure you are that you got everything right. That always leads to lost profits. Since you stated in your own listing that you would show a proof, and proceeded to not do that, you have no ground to argue."

Unfortunately, this guy can keep stone-walling me until I receive the decals, and I have to wait until then to file a case... which I will win. Even if he decides to begrudgingly do what I asked for, I certainly won't feel comfortable dealing with him in the future. I guess some people don't like repeat customers... He probably thinks I'm some kid building a kit guitar, or something. I'll make sure to let him know what an opportunity he borked, along with a pile of headstock photos from my previous builds.
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BatUtilityBelt
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Yeah, I think he's deliberately that way. Proofing is normal. I even drove to another city once just to check the proof of a photo cover, and would have been unhappy in that case if I hadn't. A headstock logo is that important, too.
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