Finally started on the Clapton Tele with the strat neck. I'm must be getting old, for some reason i ordered a body with a humbucker cutout in the neck and ordered a white single ply humbucker pickguard. Oh, well, Blind faith and Cream together. Yeah, i only had 1 silver metal knob so it's getting a pair of black metal ones and the engraved control plate.
Whats on your work bench?
- Partscaster
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I was just watching Blind Faith at Hyde Park vid this morning, and was admiring that tele w/ strat neck.mozz wrote: ↑Thu Jul 15, 2021 8:27 pm Finally started on the Clapton Tele with the strat neck. I'm must be getting old, for some reason i ordered a body with a humbucker cutout in the neck and ordered a white single ply humbucker pickguard. Oh, well, Blind faith and Cream together. Yeah, i only had 1 silver metal knob so it's getting a pair of black metal ones and the engraved control plate.
20210715_195606.jpg20210715_195642.jpg20210715_195742.jpg20210715_195854.jpg
Pic of my SX taurus-2 w/ strat neck. Has Don Mare Zepo-Live set, and 4 way switch for series option.
"The man that hath no music in himself, nor is not moved with concord of sweet sounds, is fit for treasons, stratagems, and spoils. The motions of his spirit are dull as night, and his affections dark as Erebus. Let no such man be trusted."
I still like your work so I beg your pardon on my ignorance. Are the controls labeled wrong or is it wired wrong. I looked at the 6G2 (I'm double ignorant on amps and heads) and the label looks consistent with the Princeton? Therefore easier to fix? Therefore would be FUBIR?... Up But Is Repairable.
Thanks!
FUBIR it is!
I'm fixing the faceplate decal revision now.
MASTER - VOLUME - TONE should read
VOLUME - TONE -MASTER.
The spacing / circumference for the numbers around the pots is too tight for the diameter of the knobs, and the spacing / placement is still off center a little (the decal paper expands in water), so I'll try to improve there too.
I applied these waterslide decals on the back of the acrylic faceplates (printed on the decal paper in reverse), then painted them.
So, I get a do-over on the front: paint / apply decals / clear coat.
I didnt come up with any of this myself; saw it on another forum.
FUBIR it is!
I'm fixing the faceplate decal revision now.
MASTER - VOLUME - TONE should read
VOLUME - TONE -MASTER.
The spacing / circumference for the numbers around the pots is too tight for the diameter of the knobs, and the spacing / placement is still off center a little (the decal paper expands in water), so I'll try to improve there too.
I applied these waterslide decals on the back of the acrylic faceplates (printed on the decal paper in reverse), then painted them.
So, I get a do-over on the front: paint / apply decals / clear coat.
I didnt come up with any of this myself; saw it on another forum.
Old AGF since Feb. 2015; refugee of the Great MOMO Purge of May 2020.
I try to put these in any build with a bolt on neck. The lightweight tele i'm working on sounds like a acoustic almost. The clip on Polytune tuner picks up with no problem as some guitars you have to move it a tiny bit sometimes to get the low E. Sustain is always increased. I have used the next size bigger but you get awful close to the edge of the wood. These inserts are for are 8/32 screws, 1 3/4" long, same diameter as the usual wood screws.
10/32 are nice but so big you need to be real careful with drilling and placement.
I've seen some for sale and they use 1/4-20 screws, way too big and way too coarse of a thread.
10/32 are nice but so big you need to be real careful with drilling and placement.
I've seen some for sale and they use 1/4-20 screws, way too big and way too coarse of a thread.
AGF refugee
- BrianSkeezer
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I used them on the Jazzmaster I just built and had my son use them on his Tele build last year. They work great as long as you get the insert started straight. It works a little better if you chamfer the hole with a counter sink before screwing in the insert.mozz wrote: ↑Mon Jul 19, 2021 8:37 pm I try to put these in any build with a bolt on neck. The lightweight tele i'm working on sounds like a acoustic almost. The clip on Polytune tuner picks up with no problem as some guitars you have to move it a tiny bit sometimes to get the low E. Sustain is always increased. I have used the next size bigger but you get awful close to the edge of the wood. These inserts are for are 8/32 screws, 1 3/4" long, same diameter as the usual wood screws.
10/32 are nice but so big you need to be real careful with drilling and placement.
I've seen some for sale and they use 1/4-20 screws, way too big and way too coarse of a thread.
20210719_190025.jpg
Yes, that's the ticket. I have a older drill press which i use. Only problem is the radius of the neck causes it to rock so you have to hold it firm. I'm sure i can make a jig with a slight curve to hold the neck level. Maple is tough so i usually step up a drill size at a time till it fits tight but not too tight.
AGF refugee
BrianSkeezer wrote: ↑Tue Jul 20, 2021 5:43 am
I used them on the Jazzmaster I just built and had my son use them on his Tele build last year. They work great as long as you get the insert started straight. It works a little better if you chamfer the hole with a counter sink before screwing in the insert.
@mozz , @BrianSkeezer , how about a link to your sources? TIA...
Delightful mix of insolence, arrogance and narcissism
Proud RINO trapped in a heavy metal chassis
Growing up, only kid in the neighborhood with an Uncle Ahkbar
Proud RINO trapped in a heavy metal chassis
Growing up, only kid in the neighborhood with an Uncle Ahkbar
I buy all my stainless screws, nuts, bolts and such from Albany County fasteners. I'm at work but will post the brass inserts and screws part numbers when i get home. I also buy 50 or 100 at a time for things like pickguard screws and the price drops drastically.
https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/
https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/
AGF refugee
- BrianSkeezer
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- Location: Maryland
I got mine off of ebay. 2 guitars for $10. Just checked out the site from @mozz, and if you get 100 of each, it comes out to $4 a guitar.tobijohn wrote: ↑Tue Jul 20, 2021 7:45 amBrianSkeezer wrote: ↑Tue Jul 20, 2021 5:43 am
I used them on the Jazzmaster I just built and had my son use them on his Tele build last year. They work great as long as you get the insert started straight. It works a little better if you chamfer the hole with a counter sink before screwing in the insert.
@mozz , @BrianSkeezer , how about a link to your sources? TIA...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/143489016975
- Rollin Hand
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Great, now you have me wanting to try this on one of my "experiment" guitars.
My understanding (meaning that I read this somewhere and don't remember where) is that this is standard on all Yngwie model Strats.
My understanding (meaning that I read this somewhere and don't remember where) is that this is standard on all Yngwie model Strats.
"I'm not a sore loser. It's just that I prefer to win, and when I don't, I get furious."
- Ron Swanson
- Ron Swanson
#8-32 Brass Threaded Inserts for Wood
E-Z Lok Number | Internal Thread Size: #400-008 | #8-32
https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/8 ... 117004.htm
#8-32 Stainless Steel Phillips Oval Head Machine Screws
Diameter - Thread Pitch: #8-32
Phillips Oval Head Machine Screw 18-8 SS - #8-32 x 1-3/4"
Sku #3580092 Size #8-32 x 1-3/4"
https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/P ... 580000.htm
The larger size but like i said these get pretty close to the edge if the wood.
https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/1 ... 117010.htm
https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/P ... 200000.htm and those are 1 3/4 length also.
Now these are brass, if you don't get them centered they get hard to turn and you WILL chip the brass slot, ask me how i know. Maple is tough. I purposely ground down a screw driver to fit the slot perfectly. Also, do not drill through the fretboard. I put them slightly lower than flush, not much. You can also tighten them into the wood with a screw and nut, or sacrifice a screw and cut the head off and thread the nut and use a nut driver. As i said beware the Ebay ones with 1/4-20 thread, too coarse and big. On the other hand beware of tightening the neck with 8-32 or 10-32 thread, you can really get them tight but you can snap something so go only as tight as you would with a wood screw or tiny bit more.
E-Z Lok Number | Internal Thread Size: #400-008 | #8-32
https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/8 ... 117004.htm
#8-32 Stainless Steel Phillips Oval Head Machine Screws
Diameter - Thread Pitch: #8-32
Phillips Oval Head Machine Screw 18-8 SS - #8-32 x 1-3/4"
Sku #3580092 Size #8-32 x 1-3/4"
https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/P ... 580000.htm
The larger size but like i said these get pretty close to the edge if the wood.
https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/1 ... 117010.htm
https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/P ... 200000.htm and those are 1 3/4 length also.
Now these are brass, if you don't get them centered they get hard to turn and you WILL chip the brass slot, ask me how i know. Maple is tough. I purposely ground down a screw driver to fit the slot perfectly. Also, do not drill through the fretboard. I put them slightly lower than flush, not much. You can also tighten them into the wood with a screw and nut, or sacrifice a screw and cut the head off and thread the nut and use a nut driver. As i said beware the Ebay ones with 1/4-20 thread, too coarse and big. On the other hand beware of tightening the neck with 8-32 or 10-32 thread, you can really get them tight but you can snap something so go only as tight as you would with a wood screw or tiny bit more.
AGF refugee
Ace Hardware sells them here, but it is a huge store ("biggest west of the Mississippi" supposedly)tobijohn wrote:BrianSkeezer wrote: ↑Tue Jul 20, 2021 5:43 am
I used them on the Jazzmaster I just built and had my son use them on his Tele build last year. They work great as long as you get the insert started straight. It works a little better if you chamfer the hole with a counter sink before screwing in the insert.
[mention]mozz[/mention] , [mention]BrianSkeezer[/mention] , how about a link to your sources? TIA...
Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
10 years, 2 months, and 8 days of blissful ignorance ruined by that snake in the grass Major Tom.
- t100d
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- Location: Bainbridge Island, WA
- Gearlist: '62 Guild T100D Slim Jim
'76 Ibanez 2405 Custom Agent
2004 Ibanez SA220EX
2009 Douglas WNO 630
2019 Peavey JF1
2021 Indio Retro Tele
'70 Gianninni Craviola
Córdoba Mini II EB-CE
Aria A542F
Takamine TC132SC
Rivera BC-394C
'70's Hohner PJ fretless bass
'84 Ibanez Roadstar II bass w/ SX Ursa neck
YouRock Midi guitar
Fender Acoustasonic 40
Fender Mustang III
Vox DA5
Monoprice 40W SS w/ 10" speaker
Got a lot done today …
Last night tightened up jack sockets on my Monoprice Tele and Peavey JF1, using an Irwin EX-4 spiral screw extractor and a tiny pair of slip-joint pliers.
Today I finally got around to finishing the fret crowning on the WNO 630, using my new FretGuru crowning file, touched up fret ends on the Douglas and the Peavey with my FretGuru fret end file (do you see a pattern here?), and then gave all three guitars a good fret polishing with Lizard Spit pads (3 pads per guitar).
Finally a pea-sized dab of Howard Feed'n'Wax on the fingerboards.
Boy, what a difference! Can you say "Slick"?
Next project will be the same on the '62 Guild T100D, although the original frets are kinda pitted, so maybe I'll have to save up for a re-fret—not something I'd want to tackle myself, especially on such a great guitar.
Then I'll take a look at the '76 Ibanez Custom Agent—I had put extra heavy flatwound strings on it and tuned it down (B-E-A-D-F#-B). Sounds kinda cool, but didn't really work on the gig (action too low, plus the bass player tried to read off my transposed chart, which was hilarious as he tried to figure out what key the horns were in!! So will re-string with either 10's or 11's after fret polish—frets are are bit worn, but not as much as the Guild, so am debating a light touch up with the crowning file …
Craviola frets are pretty flat, might re-crown …
The Ibanez SA220EX just needs a fret polish—I put 9's on it, intending to learn some chicken pickin', but it threw the whammy bar way off, think I'll go back to 11's.
Fun, fun, fun!
Last night tightened up jack sockets on my Monoprice Tele and Peavey JF1, using an Irwin EX-4 spiral screw extractor and a tiny pair of slip-joint pliers.
Today I finally got around to finishing the fret crowning on the WNO 630, using my new FretGuru crowning file, touched up fret ends on the Douglas and the Peavey with my FretGuru fret end file (do you see a pattern here?), and then gave all three guitars a good fret polishing with Lizard Spit pads (3 pads per guitar).
Finally a pea-sized dab of Howard Feed'n'Wax on the fingerboards.
Boy, what a difference! Can you say "Slick"?
Next project will be the same on the '62 Guild T100D, although the original frets are kinda pitted, so maybe I'll have to save up for a re-fret—not something I'd want to tackle myself, especially on such a great guitar.
Then I'll take a look at the '76 Ibanez Custom Agent—I had put extra heavy flatwound strings on it and tuned it down (B-E-A-D-F#-B). Sounds kinda cool, but didn't really work on the gig (action too low, plus the bass player tried to read off my transposed chart, which was hilarious as he tried to figure out what key the horns were in!! So will re-string with either 10's or 11's after fret polish—frets are are bit worn, but not as much as the Guild, so am debating a light touch up with the crowning file …
Craviola frets are pretty flat, might re-crown …
The Ibanez SA220EX just needs a fret polish—I put 9's on it, intending to learn some chicken pickin', but it threw the whammy bar way off, think I'll go back to 11's.
Fun, fun, fun!
"Anyone who understands jazz knows that you can't understand it. It's too complicated. That's what's so simple about it."
50w 16Ω 10% power soak / attenuator.
100w 24Ω and 33Ω resistors.
For use with Silkyn Super 50.
brushed a little water and gently used a heat gun to soften the glue, clean up and re-glued this piece that chipped of my new Indio Tele during nut replacement.
I finally found my bone nut blanks and will try my first nut fab.
The nut slot on this is way deep and the typical sized nut I bought is not tall enough.
i have it shimmed with 4 slices of business card right now.
100w 24Ω and 33Ω resistors.
For use with Silkyn Super 50.
brushed a little water and gently used a heat gun to soften the glue, clean up and re-glued this piece that chipped of my new Indio Tele during nut replacement.
I finally found my bone nut blanks and will try my first nut fab.
The nut slot on this is way deep and the typical sized nut I bought is not tall enough.
i have it shimmed with 4 slices of business card right now.
Old AGF since Feb. 2015; refugee of the Great MOMO Purge of May 2020.
- andrewsrea
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- Gearlist: 28 Guitars: (2) basses, (2) acoustics, (3) hollow bodies, (3) Semi hollow, (1) Double-neck, (17) Solid-bodies
Winner! Almost done. But like the last one i built, no 90degree phono jack to be found, so i have to order them. I got 2 power transformers from " Carls custom amps", he had them custom made at Edcor, plate voltages are right on the money so i am happy about that.
AGF refugee
- Partscaster
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I am in the middle of a guitar experiment.
I just finished a strat build while keeping the body "unfinished". The allparts sro-62 neck has a tru oil finish.
I thought i would test how an unfinished strat body sounds. It is a paint grade alder body, 5 full length pieces ( plus a thin sliver on one bout, so technically 6 -piece)
It should remain fairly stable against humidity with the 5 pieces.
Anyhow,....it is my liveliest sounding strat, plugged in, and very full unplugged. I have some identical, and comparable pickup models to test against in other finished bodies.
I'm gonna get another unfinished body for a further build test.
I could be swapping out a few poly finished bodies for raw before all is done.
I just finished a strat build while keeping the body "unfinished". The allparts sro-62 neck has a tru oil finish.
I thought i would test how an unfinished strat body sounds. It is a paint grade alder body, 5 full length pieces ( plus a thin sliver on one bout, so technically 6 -piece)
It should remain fairly stable against humidity with the 5 pieces.
Anyhow,....it is my liveliest sounding strat, plugged in, and very full unplugged. I have some identical, and comparable pickup models to test against in other finished bodies.
I'm gonna get another unfinished body for a further build test.
I could be swapping out a few poly finished bodies for raw before all is done.
"The man that hath no music in himself, nor is not moved with concord of sweet sounds, is fit for treasons, stratagems, and spoils. The motions of his spirit are dull as night, and his affections dark as Erebus. Let no such man be trusted."
That is one cool pickguard!Partscaster wrote: ↑Thu Aug 19, 2021 11:39 pm I am in the middle of a guitar experiment.
I just finished a strat build while keeping the body "unfinished". The allparts sro-62 neck has a tru oil finish.
I thought i would test how an unfinished strat body sounds. It is a paint grade alder body, 4 full length pieces ( plus a thin sliver on one bout, so technically 5 -piece)
It should remain fairly stable against humidity with the 4 pieces.
Anyhow,....it is my liveliest sounding strat, plugged in, and very full unplugged. I have some identical, and comparable pickup models to test against.
I'm gonna get another unfinished body for a further build test.
I could be swapping out a few poly finished bodies for raw.
DSCN2739.jpegDSCN2738.jpeg
Delightful mix of insolence, arrogance and narcissism
Proud RINO trapped in a heavy metal chassis
Growing up, only kid in the neighborhood with an Uncle Ahkbar
Proud RINO trapped in a heavy metal chassis
Growing up, only kid in the neighborhood with an Uncle Ahkbar