As some of you may have noted, last week I received a GFS Heavy Duty locking trem that I aim to use on my Sterling AX40.
I was hesitant initially to order one because there just isn't a lot of info out there on these trems. Opinion, sure, but not information. So, I decided to take a good long look at this in the hopes it might help someone else.
First things first -- this is a heavy trem. I tried to weigh it to get an exact number, but it wouldn't register on my bathroom scale (damned scale has no problem showing me how fat I am....). I compared it to a Floyd Rose I had lying around, and it felt about the same.
Here they are together, so that you can get a feel for the overall dimensions in comparison:
Then, we move on to the block. GFS lists it as a 30 mm block, which is too short for anything. But wait -- when compared with a known 32 mm block...
That is NOT a 30 mm block. I measured it at 34 mm. I can't say for sure they would all be this far off, but there you go.
Speaking of the block, I was anticipating that I would need a longer block for the AX40, as the trem is flush mounted. I very unscientifically measured the AX40 block at 40 mm. 34 mm won't cut it. But would I need a block for a Gotoh, or for a Floyd? I checked the screws.....
...and they looked like they should match the pattern for a Floyd block. But I wanted to be sure, so I tried to take the block off. The outside screws came out fine, but the middle one, not so much.
I finally got it out with a remover. This told me that the screws holding the block on are made of wire-grade steel. Not so good.
That done (grumble), I moved on to verifying the screw pattern. I compared it with a block made to fit a Gotoh trem, and one made to Floyd specs.
Bingo! A Floyd block fits. I have a 37 MM brass block handy, so I put that on....
...and put in some hardened steel screws.
That oughta hold it.
Unfortunately, the wire-grade screws put the intonation screws and the string lock bolts into question. I will replace the intonation screws, and will see if I still have some spare Floyd bolts around.
More to come.
GFS Heavy Duty Tremolo Deep Dive
- Rollin Hand
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- Rollin Hand
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I should have added that I will check this against the trem on my Peavey Wolfgang. If they are the same, I have a 42 mm Floyd L-shaped big brass block that could add to it. As could a set of those hardened steel screws.
I also hedged my bets and have a stock-thickness 42 mm block inbound.
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This is the thing -- there are a lot of cheap guitars that get better fast with quality fasteners.
FWIW, the Gotoh is closer to the OFR shape than this bridge is, save for the string lock bolts, which are 4 MM longer. And Gotoh made the Ibanez Edge, and the the spacing for the block screws is the same.
The reason I am doing this is for may own knowledge, and to add to the knowedge base online. For example, if I had an Ibanez with an Edge 3, I know that the OFR fits perfectly, but now I also know that the GFS Heavy Duty likely won't fit.
FWIW, the Gotoh is closer to the OFR shape than this bridge is, save for the string lock bolts, which are 4 MM longer. And Gotoh made the Ibanez Edge, and the the spacing for the block screws is the same.
The reason I am doing this is for may own knowledge, and to add to the knowedge base online. For example, if I had an Ibanez with an Edge 3, I know that the OFR fits perfectly, but now I also know that the GFS Heavy Duty likely won't fit.
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- RockYoWorld
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As someone who spent way too much time studying the mathematics of balancing a Floyd Rose, I very much appreciate this. I understand why you're replacing those components and it could still be economic to order the GFS and upgrade those parts, but it's unfortunate that we won't have a before/after experience from you. But please update on your experience as it gets in the guitar!
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I will update.
One thing is that I managed to lose one of the string lock blocks. D'OH!
One thing is that I managed to lose one of the string lock blocks. D'OH!
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- RockYoWorld
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I've done that before on a Floyd Rose... very annoying.Rollin Hand wrote: ↑Tue Jun 22, 2021 5:19 pm I will update.
One thing is that I managed to lose one of the string lock blocks. D'OH!
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Well, I have two sets on order. Along with a set of lock bolts. Thus guaranteeing I find all the other ones I have stashed.....
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- Rollin Hand
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Ok, the lock bolts and lock blocks have arrived, so I decided to take a look at them side by side. On the left is the OFR block made in Germany, on the right, the one that came with the bridge.
I don't know if anyone else can see it, but to my eyes, the OFR block looks to be of better quality, at least in terms of the finish. But, if that detail is better....
Then we compare to the wild variable, a titanium block I got from AliExpress:
There is a difference in the way the hole is cut into the block, which will come into play later.
Now let's look at the string lock bolts.
The OFR bolt is clearly longer, and has a more squared-off end to the bolt. I am guessing that this makes for a more positive engagement with the block.
This also explains why when I put these titanium blocks on my VH1 Striped Series I ran into tuning stability issues. The hole in the titanium blocks does NOT engage positively with the OFR screw, as you might be able to see here:
However with the GFS trem screw:
Fits like it was meant to be there.
So that raises a question: OFR bolts and blocks, or the GFS bolt with titanium blocks? I may have an experiment on my hands!
Unfortunately, I also have a bunch of titanium blocks on my hands that likely won't work in my OFRs and FR Specials. Poop.
I don't know if anyone else can see it, but to my eyes, the OFR block looks to be of better quality, at least in terms of the finish. But, if that detail is better....
Then we compare to the wild variable, a titanium block I got from AliExpress:
There is a difference in the way the hole is cut into the block, which will come into play later.
Now let's look at the string lock bolts.
The OFR bolt is clearly longer, and has a more squared-off end to the bolt. I am guessing that this makes for a more positive engagement with the block.
This also explains why when I put these titanium blocks on my VH1 Striped Series I ran into tuning stability issues. The hole in the titanium blocks does NOT engage positively with the OFR screw, as you might be able to see here:
However with the GFS trem screw:
Fits like it was meant to be there.
So that raises a question: OFR bolts and blocks, or the GFS bolt with titanium blocks? I may have an experiment on my hands!
Unfortunately, I also have a bunch of titanium blocks on my hands that likely won't work in my OFRs and FR Specials. Poop.
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- Rollin Hand
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Back again, with a couple of other observations.
I compared the GFS trem with the trem on my Peavey Wolfgan, as rumour has it they are the same bridge. Well, kinda.
Looking at the Peavey (and I know it's hard to tell from the pics, so bear with me), the trem lock bolts and the intonation screws are clearly hardened steel, with the thin matte finish one gets on the OFR bolts. The same is NOT true on the GFS, as per my previous notes.
Also, apologies for not getting a pic, but the Peavey block looks better. The GFS block looks cast then milled, while the Peavey block looks milled.
That said, as the picshows, the baseplate looks ths same, asdo the saddles. Obviously one has black fine tuners, and the other doesn't
Then there are the intonation screws. I replaced them with fresh, hardened screws,and a vouple of the were a chore. It is possible that the threads on the bridge needed chasing, which would indicate less than perfect quality control.
My next step: installation! I hope to get to that next weekend.
I compared the GFS trem with the trem on my Peavey Wolfgan, as rumour has it they are the same bridge. Well, kinda.
Looking at the Peavey (and I know it's hard to tell from the pics, so bear with me), the trem lock bolts and the intonation screws are clearly hardened steel, with the thin matte finish one gets on the OFR bolts. The same is NOT true on the GFS, as per my previous notes.
Also, apologies for not getting a pic, but the Peavey block looks better. The GFS block looks cast then milled, while the Peavey block looks milled.
That said, as the picshows, the baseplate looks ths same, asdo the saddles. Obviously one has black fine tuners, and the other doesn't
Then there are the intonation screws. I replaced them with fresh, hardened screws,and a vouple of the were a chore. It is possible that the threads on the bridge needed chasing, which would indicate less than perfect quality control.
My next step: installation! I hope to get to that next weekend.
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Time for an update on this little adventure.
I pulled the old bridge from the Sterling and the knife edges were in less than...uh, sterling shape.
Then I looked at the trem posts, and compared them with the ones that came from GFS. Do they match? Nope
Then I compared the Sterling posts with a set of OFR studs I had around. Yep, these look like a match.
Also, most cheapy trems have cheap studs made of heaven knows what. The Sterling? Likely steel. Can't say for sure whether it is hardened steel, but it's magnetic.
Then we move on to installing the bridge. My 42mm block arrived, so I put that on. I put the trem in, and got the studs down to what looked about right. Looks great on the guitar.
With one caveat.....
D'OH!
The holder for the arm is clearly MUCH thicker than the current Floyd design. I imagine this would be similar for many guitars.
So, I either need to do some clearancing (makes me nervous) use the arm and holder from the Sterling trem (suboptimal), or pop for an OFR arm and holder ($30 Cdn. after shipping and taxes).
I pulled the old bridge from the Sterling and the knife edges were in less than...uh, sterling shape.
Then I looked at the trem posts, and compared them with the ones that came from GFS. Do they match? Nope
Then I compared the Sterling posts with a set of OFR studs I had around. Yep, these look like a match.
Also, most cheapy trems have cheap studs made of heaven knows what. The Sterling? Likely steel. Can't say for sure whether it is hardened steel, but it's magnetic.
Then we move on to installing the bridge. My 42mm block arrived, so I put that on. I put the trem in, and got the studs down to what looked about right. Looks great on the guitar.
With one caveat.....
D'OH!
The holder for the arm is clearly MUCH thicker than the current Floyd design. I imagine this would be similar for many guitars.
So, I either need to do some clearancing (makes me nervous) use the arm and holder from the Sterling trem (suboptimal), or pop for an OFR arm and holder ($30 Cdn. after shipping and taxes).
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Another note, literally:
When I play the open strings on the guitar acoustically, for some reason the open A is a LOT louder than the others. That is the one with the original GFS string lock bolt and the OFR string lock block. When I sort out the trem arm clearance, I may need to put that combination on all of the strings to see what happens.
And for the record, the strings on the guitar are the ones that were on it when I bought it. I wanted to see what made a difference before I added new strings to the mix.
When I play the open strings on the guitar acoustically, for some reason the open A is a LOT louder than the others. That is the one with the original GFS string lock bolt and the OFR string lock block. When I sort out the trem arm clearance, I may need to put that combination on all of the strings to see what happens.
And for the record, the strings on the guitar are the ones that were on it when I bought it. I wanted to see what made a difference before I added new strings to the mix.
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- RockYoWorld
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If you detune, is that still the case? I've noticed on my LTD EC-1000's that they have a resonance frequency around C#. I notch it out on my Axe FX patches to prevent buildup when I palm mute a C#. Your comment just reminded me of something like that.Rollin Hand wrote: ↑Wed Jul 21, 2021 4:54 pm Another note, literally:
open A is a LOT louder than the others.
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I haven't detuned this guitar. I think (not know) that this is a result of the string lock block. Can't say whether it would happen if I detuned.
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- Rollin Hand
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Ok, so I set up to clearance the bridge.
And I got to work:
It was right about then that I realised I had clearanced the wrong side of the hole.

I'm an idiot.
So, then I clearanced to correct the correct side. And....
Success! And my idiocy is concealed by the bridge!
I tuned it up and it has made a real difference. The guitar sounds more premium, if that makes sense. Sustain is better, and the tone is more full.
For the next experiment, the different string lock blocks.
And I got to work:
It was right about then that I realised I had clearanced the wrong side of the hole.

I'm an idiot.
So, then I clearanced to correct the correct side. And....
Success! And my idiocy is concealed by the bridge!
I tuned it up and it has made a real difference. The guitar sounds more premium, if that makes sense. Sustain is better, and the tone is more full.
For the next experiment, the different string lock blocks.
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- RockYoWorld
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While reading your latest update, I literally went "NOOOOOO!" out loud before I even saw the Simpsons gif. More awkward because I was at work... My coworkers just thought that I was dealing with more work related BS.
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Why weren't you in my basement yesterday, darn it?RockYoWorld wrote: ↑Mon Aug 09, 2021 11:37 am While reading your latest update, I literally went "NOOOOOO!" out loud before I even saw the Simpsons gif. More awkward because I was at work... My coworkers just thought that I was dealing with more work related BS.

Just to add to the "this is the same bridge as the Peavey Wolfgang" argument, the arm collar and socket are identical between this bridge and the one on my Wolf. That makes the differences between the two so far the quality of the screws, the block quality, and the Peavey logo. I am not counting the connected studs because the posts look identical.
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I stopped hiding in people's basements due to the overwhelming amount of complaints
- Rollin Hand
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RockYoWorld wrote: ↑Mon Aug 09, 2021 8:54 pmI stopped hiding in people's basements due to the overwhelming amount of complaints

And I heard your "NOOOOOOOO" as the slow motion "no" when someone tries to shoot the partner of a cop who just about to retire in a week, and throws himself in front of the shot. And says it with tons of reverb.
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A minor update: i put the titanium blocks from AliExpress in to test them. While thy do add something to the sound, they also make it impossible to keep the guitar in tune. Long story short, don't buy those blocks!
I will insert the OFR blocks and report back. So far, the trem is giving a similar premium feel to my Peavey Wolfgang. I expect my next post on this thread will have my final thoughts.
I will insert the OFR blocks and report back. So far, the trem is giving a similar premium feel to my Peavey Wolfgang. I expect my next post on this thread will have my final thoughts.
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- Rollin Hand
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I finally got around to trying to set the intonation on the Axis last night. The shorter string lock bolts, compared to the OFR string lock bolts, mean it is impossible to use the Floyd Rose tool on it. So began the frustrating detune-adjust-retune-still off-detune-adjust-retune dance that makes the process a bore. But, it's done now. And I am seriously considering a set of the longer bolts, just for the convenience.
Overall, I think this is a good bridge. The cost to my door for the thing was around $120 CAD, and it would work fine for that cost.
Here comes the big but: if you don't use the included bridge posts, which have connected mounting bushings you're out a bit more. If you need a different sized nut, you are out a bit more. And if you need a longer sustain block, you are adding to the cost again. If you want better fasteners to hold it together, and better string lock blocks, more cost.
In the end, it might have been easier, and only slightly more expensive, to just buy a Gotoh. Yes, ypu need to buy a nut, and the posts likely won't work with whatever guitar you have, but you can get most of the rest of the stuff as part of the kit. Big blocks are harder to buy as well, but the stock block worked fine for EVH when he was with EBMM. It comes out as a wash, basically, in terms of money spent, but the good parts are already installed.
Now, if you were going to reuse the old posts, and didn't need the longer block, and were going to leave the rest of the trem as is, it is still a massive upgrade over a crappy cheap trem -- just like GFS advertises. But it could be much better for very little money.
Or at least the damn posts could be two separate pieces.
Overall, I think this is a good bridge. The cost to my door for the thing was around $120 CAD, and it would work fine for that cost.
Here comes the big but: if you don't use the included bridge posts, which have connected mounting bushings you're out a bit more. If you need a different sized nut, you are out a bit more. And if you need a longer sustain block, you are adding to the cost again. If you want better fasteners to hold it together, and better string lock blocks, more cost.
In the end, it might have been easier, and only slightly more expensive, to just buy a Gotoh. Yes, ypu need to buy a nut, and the posts likely won't work with whatever guitar you have, but you can get most of the rest of the stuff as part of the kit. Big blocks are harder to buy as well, but the stock block worked fine for EVH when he was with EBMM. It comes out as a wash, basically, in terms of money spent, but the good parts are already installed.
Now, if you were going to reuse the old posts, and didn't need the longer block, and were going to leave the rest of the trem as is, it is still a massive upgrade over a crappy cheap trem -- just like GFS advertises. But it could be much better for very little money.
Or at least the damn posts could be two separate pieces.
Elbows up.