Waterslide Headstock Decal - Spray or Coat?

[Lamf77]

I bought some waterslide decals to put on the headstock of an Allparts Tele neck. After I apply the decal...do I need to coat with Laquer or Poly? Not sure what to do here, Google search has me even mor confused. Appreciate any help. Thanks!

[deeaa]

It's best to coat it because it's very thin and scratches off real easy, especially when it's been there for years it can disintegrate with just a brush of finger ...anything you would normally use works fine. Tru-oil, spray lacquer ...never had any issues with decals no matter what I've used.

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[Lamf77]

It's best to coat it because it's very thin and scratches off real easy, especially when it's been there for years it can disintegrate with just a brush of finger ...anything you would normally use works fine. Tru-oil, spray lacquer ...never had any issues with decals no matter what I've used.

Sent from my M2103K19G using Tapatalk

Well I cut off a small corner, soaked and was able to apply and lookd ok. Then I saw an instruction sheet that came with them...doh....it said to spray the decal sheet with clearcoat before I even put it in the water? Is this necessary and if so...what is the best clearcoat to buy?
Then once applied...obviously let it dry. Then just tape off the headstock and spray over lightly with lacquer? Does anyone have a specific brand? I am new to this and dont want to screw it up. Thanks!

[deeaa]

Some of the decals are pretty fragile, and require a strengthening coat before even soaking in water, yes. Then again those are also the thinnest ones and show very little edge lines when done.

I never worried about the lacquer brands...but let it dry throughout before spraying anyway, and remember not to mix polys and alkyds. I usually buy automotive 2K lacquers when I spray but for small stuff like headstocks I've usually used tru-oil, especially if the neck is not lacquered already.

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[tonebender]

Any decals I applied back in the day got a coat or two of clear.

[Brendan]

I bought some waterslide decals to put on the headstock of an Allparts Tele neck. After I apply the decal...do I need to coat with Laquer or Poly? Not sure what to do here, Google search has me even mor confused. Appreciate any help. Thanks!

You can screw up a decal by going with heavy coats right out the gate. For the first coats, lightly mist the headstock with nitro lacquer. You want the mist to fall down onto the decal. I hold the can about a foot further back and aimed slightly up. One misting coat per day for three days. I let it set a few days after that. You can then start spraying progressively heavier, but I kept it at one pass per day.

[Lamf77]

I bought some waterslide decals to put on the headstock of an Allparts Tele neck. After I apply the decal...do I need to coat with Laquer or Poly? Not sure what to do here, Google search has me even mor confused. Appreciate any help. Thanks!

You can screw up a decal by going with heavy coats right out the gate. For the first coats, lightly mist the headstock with nitro lacquer. You want the mist to fall down onto the decal. I hold the can about a foot further back and aimed slightly up. One misting coat per day for three days. I let it set a few days after that. You can then start spraying progressively heavier, but I kept it at one pass per day.

Do you have a specific brand you recommend?

[andrewsrea]

A friend and I have been obsessing over these details (he more than I) and it depends on what you are going for.

A replica of a 1950's to mid-1960's: Give the waterslide a healthy dose of clear vintage lacquer full gloss sealer, starting with a very clear decal base. Let it dry at least overnight, apply it and keep it out of direct sunlight for a few weeks. Then, let the aging begin. Beware, it will eventually yellow to a near amber, it will flake, chip etc.

Modern / lasting: Start with a very clear decal base, inkjet and seal with a clear modern lacquer gloss, acrylic gloss or urethane. When I mix my own lacquer, I ensure it has a 1:10 ratio of retarder to lacquer, to slow down the drying and ensuring leveling. Make sure the clear you use is NOT water-based. Scuff the face of the headstock (sctoch-brite will do), apply the gloss from 12" in a wet, but light coat. Let dry for 15 minutes and apply two more like coats as necessary, then let dry overnight. If you are going to level sand and polish to a mirror finish, repeat the 3 coats per day until you are certain you can sand without sand-thru to the decal. I go no lower than 800 grit for level sanding and do a 800-1000-1200-1500-2000-compund-glaze polishing.

[Lamf77]

A friend and I have been obsessing over these details (he more than I) and it depends on what you are going for.

A replica of a 1950's to mid-1960's: Give the waterslide a healthy dose of clear vintage lacquer full gloss sealer, starting with a very clear decal base. Let it dry at least overnight, apply it and keep it out of direct sunlight for a few weeks. Then, let the aging begin. Beware, it will eventually yellow to a near amber, it will flake, chip etc.

Modern / lasting: Start with a very clear decal base, inkjet and seal with a clear modern lacquer gloss, acrylic gloss or urethane. When I mix my own lacquer, I ensure it has a 1:10 ratio of retarder to lacquer, to slow down the drying and ensuring leveling. Make sure the clear you use is NOT water-based. Scuff the face of the headstock (sctoch-brite will do), apply the gloss from 12" in a wet, but light coat. Let dry for 15 minutes and apply two more like coats as necessary, then let dry overnight. If you are going to level sand and polish to a mirror finish, repeat the 3 coats per day until you are certain you can sand without sand-thru to the decal. I go no lower than 800 grit for level sanding and do a 800-1000-1200-1500-2000-compund-glaze polishing.

Yes...this is what I needed. Modern is fine with me. Do you have specific brand of non water based clear you recommend? Thanks Rob!

[andrewsrea]

Yes...this is what I needed. Modern is fine with me. Do you have specific brand of non water based clear you recommend? Thanks Rob!

I personally use nitro lacquer, because I am set up for it and itis forgiving and I can add retarder into it. I've used Krylon Acrylic Clear with good results on pedals and the initial seal on inkjet decals, and beleive you'll get great results with that. Can be found at any big-box store.

[Lamf77]

Yes...this is what I needed. Modern is fine with me. Do you have specific brand of non water based clear you recommend? Thanks Rob!

I personally use nitro lacquer, because I am set up for it and itis forgiving and I can add retarder into it. I've used Krylon Acrylic Clear with good results on pedals and the initial seal on inkjet decals, and beleive you'll get great results with that. Can be found at any big-box store.

Is this the "right stuff"?


I think I ordered the above in error...should I have ordered this:

[andrewsrea]

Is this the "right stuff"?


I think I ordered the above in error...should I have ordered this:

Either would work, although i never saw the 'glaze'. Something tells me it has more solids to build quicker and retarder to level. Should work fine.

[Brendan]

I bought some waterslide decals to put on the headstock of an Allparts Tele neck. After I apply the decal...do I need to coat with Laquer or Poly? Not sure what to do here, Google search has me even mor confused. Appreciate any help. Thanks!

You can screw up a decal by going with heavy coats right out the gate. For the first coats, lightly mist the headstock with nitro lacquer. You want the mist to fall down onto the decal. I hold the can about a foot further back and aimed slightly up. One misting coat per day for three days. I let it set a few days after that. You can then start spraying progressively heavier, but I kept it at one pass per day.

Do you have a specific brand you recommend?

I've had great luck with Reranch, Mohawk and Watco. Do you have a Woodcraft store in your area? They usually have nitro clear gloss cans in stock.

[Brendan]

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/stri ... sol-mohawk

https://reranchstore.stores.turbify.net ... rcoat.html

I'd go Reranch just because that site has been an amazing resource. Mohawk is an great product too.

[Lamf77]

Is this the "right stuff"?


I think I ordered the above in error...should I have ordered this:

Either would work, although i never saw the 'glaze'. Something tells me it has more solids to build quicker and retarder to level. Should work fine.

Would this be a better option or pretty much same?

[andrewsrea]

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/stri ... sol-mohawk

https://reranchstore.stores.turbify.net ... rcoat.html

I'd go Reranch just because that site has been an amazing resource. Mohawk is an great product too.

FYI: Reranch is not accepting orders. Bill Lester's (the owner) wife has medical conditions which is keeping them closed.

Mohawk is a indeed, great product.

[andrewsrea]

Would this be a better option or pretty much same?

That would work as wel, better for nitro lacquer over nitro lacquer. A bit more pricey and will take longer to cure. Nitro dries outside-in and requires a few more days before you can polish.