Squier Bullet FSR Tele upgrades (from Page 2)

[Gear_Junky]

I do t use it so much now and haven't bothered w the fan.

I should also mention, if it may be of interest, I was going through my emails and recalled that I had the reverb tank replaced on my V16 with a full length genuine Accutronics. I was emailing with a gentleman from Accutronics and he still had original parts around. I was asking him about which tank to use for the right specs (I'd bought several tanks as I'd read different part numbers were "correct" for it), anywho, he offered for me to send him a full length tank (i.e. the chassis, aka "channel") and he'd re-spec it to the correct part, which I did. I think it cost me $40 for that. I wonder if he's still around (that was 8 years ago).

[Mossman]

Well, the "open box" order was cancelled by MF, I called them and the agent said that the headstock was broken. Ah, well. I was ordering something from GC, so I had them match the price and ordered the same tele in new condition. That'll teach 'em At least this way I'll be able to return to the local Guitar Center if I need to. Also grabbed a used Crate Palomino V32 1x12 (the bigger brother of the V16 in my avatar). For some reason I really like these amps, ever since I heard them back 20 years ago. They are described as very similar to Vox AC15 and AC30 (which I've never played, so I wouldn't know).

I've been meaning to ask you if that's a Palomino in your avatar. I had a roommate back around 2006/7 who had one, and man that thing sounded sweet! I kept trying to buy it from him, because he didn't play it in the house much and he barely played out at all. He had lots of amps, and lots of guitars (former pro musician), but he kept most of it stored away, and only kept one guitar and maybe two small, boutique, 5 and 8 watt amps out for wood-shedding... Which he did all the time. But he wouldn't sell me Palomino.

I always thought that amp sounded kinda like a hybrid between a Vox and Fender. I was very fond of Vox amps at the time, and to me it sounded "Voxy", but with a bit of sweetness to it. It's hard to describe.

[nomadh]

Yup I guess class a run a very consistent hot and this amp even more so for the tone. Khan said if you back it off much the tone really suffers. I have an ac fan I keep in the bottom of mine I used to use it alot and the tubes did fine long term. I do t use it so much now and haven't bothered w the fan.

Sounds like my situation. Did you run the fan off the circuitry or just a totally external little fan that you put inside and pointed up? Any noise issues from it?

Just a little ac aimed up. No mods, far from most efficient but usually no noise and kept it from being crazy hot

[nomadh]

Well, the "open box" order was cancelled by MF, I called them and the agent said that the headstock was broken. Ah, well. I was ordering something from GC, so I had them match the price and ordered the same tele in new condition. That'll teach 'em At least this way I'll be able to return to the local Guitar Center if I need to. Also grabbed a used Crate Palomino V32 1x12 (the bigger brother of the V16 in my avatar). For some reason I really like these amps, ever since I heard them back 20 years ago. They are described as very similar to Vox AC15 and AC30 (which I've never played, so I wouldn't know).

I've been meaning to ask you if that's a Palomino in your avatar. I had a roommate back around 2006/7 who had one, and man that thing sounded sweet! I kept trying to buy it from him, because he didn't play it in the house much and he barely played out at all. He had lots of amps, and lots of guitars (former pro musician), but he kept most of it stored away, and only kept one guitar and maybe two small, boutique, 5 and 8 watt amps out for wood-shedding... Which he did all the time. But he wouldn't sell me Palomino.

I always thought that amp sounded kinda like a hybrid between a Vox and Fender. I was very fond of Vox amps at the time, and to me it sounded "Voxy", but with a bit of sweetness to it. It's hard to describe.

Many compare it to a vox including the designer. I like the gain channel alot. The clean is sweet but not a glassy clean like a fender. I call it a greasy clean. Just barely a frosting to its glassiness.

[Gear_Junky]

Alright, I'm not a photographer, so pics are low-fi. It arrived a few days ago and I was pondering whether to keep it, due to a few glue smudges, but after a two-attempt of a chat with GC customer service they made me an offer I accepted to keep it.

It's definitely more "orange" in some lighting than "butterscotch" and certainly far from "TV yellow". But I think I can embrace the orange guitar look. Especially if I can find a lazy way to tint the neck in similar shade.

[Gear_Junky]

Cavity is painted with shielding paint (which offers ZERO electrical continuity as I report later in the upgrade posts), pots are 250k mini alpha, tone cap is .033uf.

[Gear_Junky]

Neck pocket fit appears to be very tight and solid. I went with this particular model because I could see leaving it alone cosmetically (in terms of color scheme). I would maybe upgrade to a black TUSQ nut (anyone know the model no. of a nut that fits from Graphtech?) and the string tree. And pickups at some point (that's just me). Watching a video on Youtube showing that it's routed for a humbucker in the neck I realized something: one could put in a solderless harness and have multiple pickguards with a plethora of neck pickups - standard tele, P90, Filtertron, perhaps Dynasonic, etc. and just change them out without even replacing strings (just loosening). I like upgrading pickups but usually just "one and done", I never wanted to be that guy who always replaces pickups in the same guitar... But now...

[Gear_Junky]

One perception so far is that it seems surprisingly brash to me, tonewise. I've done a bit of reading and went with what someone suggested - starting with tone control in the middle (as if it were active EQ) and adjusting up or down as needed, but still, maybe I'm just not used to it. This is my first telecaster ever and the very few times I tried them at music stores I usually didn't appreciate them then. Do you find you set your amps very differently for your teles vs. say LP's or other guitars, even strats?

Intuitively I also suspect that the stock strings are garbage and that I'll get pronounced improvement with good strings, in due course, of course.

[Chocol8]

Teles are a very different world than a les Paul and yes different than a Strat. They are bright and twangy by nature so yes, expect to need adjusting for yourself and your amp.

[Gear_Junky]

Teles are a very different world than a les Paul and yes different than a Strat. They are bright and twangy by nature so yes, expect to need adjusting for yourself and your amp.

Thank you. I am curious if people who were not used to telecasters felt the same way about a high end instrument they first tried? No, I'm not expecting my Squier to be on par, just trying to figure out if it's a toneful guitar that I need to get used to and that I'll invest a little bit of effort into with pickups and TLC or if it's not for me.

I am willing to give a fighting chance, not going to be quick to dismiss it, it's kind of like in my whisky journey - certain things are not agreeable at first, but then become favorites. I'm just gathering data. I really need to try a higher end tele as a frame of reference.

I really like the idea of having a simple guitar to just grab off a stand right next to me for practicing any time. I am too worried about the LP guitars or the hollowbody to leave them on stands and SJM's are a tad unwieldy for that. If this tele falls on the floor, I'll worry about the floor

[Mossman]

A Tele should sound bright, but not "brash". They use less copper in the pickups of the cheapest imports, so they tend to sound harsh and very bright. They also use ceramic magnets because they're cheaper than alnico, and they impart more warmth (I hate to imagine what an underwound pickup with A5s would sound like). But you're going to swap out the pickups anyway, right? If it plays well and feels good, a better set of pickups may be all that it needs. But I'd probably replace the tuners and the bridge saddles as well. Full size Alpha pots are ok, but I don't know about the small ones. When I see dime-size pots I always replace them, and they're not usually Alphas.

The "Butterscotch" Squier uses on the Affinities and Bullets is actually a dark trans-amber. I was told that it has to be darker to cover the less attractive features of the Basswood, which is typically a "paint-grade" wood.

[Gear_Junky]

A Tele should sound bright, but not "brash". They use less copper in the pickups of the cheapest imports, so they tend to sound harsh and very bright. They also use ceramic magnets because they're cheaper than alnico, and they impart more warmth (I hate to imagine what an underwound pickup with A5s would sound like). But you're going to swap out the pickups anyway, right? If it plays well and feels good, a better set of pickups may be all that it needs. But I'd probably replace the tuners and the bridge saddles as well. Full size Alpha pots are ok, but I don't know about the small ones. When I see dime-size pots I always replace them, and they're not usually Alphas.

The "Butterscotch" Squier uses on the Affinities and Bullets is actually a dark trans-amber. I was told that it has to be darker to cover the less attractive features of the Basswood, which is typically a "paint-grade" wood.

Yep, pretty much agree 100%. Right now I'm having a tough time removing the stock nut to see if it's flat on the bottom, so I can order a black TUSQ nut. Once I succeed there, I can then think about pickups while doing some badly needed fret polishing and maybe neck sanding. Maybe tinting. The darn workers used too much glue on the nut. I already scored around it with a blade, tapped on all ends, nothing. Might need to go ahead and break it, but I wanted to keep it whole to use as guide for the new one. I forgot how much fun this is

[Mossman]

Yep, pretty much agree 100%. Right now I'm having a tough time removing the stock nut to see if it's flat on the bottom, so I can order a black TUSQ nut. Once I succeed there, I can then think about pickups while doing some badly needed fret polishing and maybe neck sanding. Maybe tinting. The darn workers used too much glue on the nut. I already scored around it with a blade, tapped on all ends, nothing. Might need to go ahead and break it, but I wanted to keep it whole to use as guide for the new one. I forgot how much fun this is

When a nut it stubborn, I usually take a pair of square-nose pliers and grasp the nut in the middle (around the D and G string slots), and gently rock it back and forth until the glue bond breaks. SX is notorious for using too much glue in the nut slots, and I usually have to cut the nut down the middle (lengthwise) with a razor saw, and knock the bits out using a small jewler's screwdriver as a chisel. Let's hope you don't have to go to those extremes.

If I were a betting man, I'd bet that nut slot is flat. I don't recall ever seeing an arched nut slot on an import guitar.

[Gear_Junky]

When a nut it stubborn, I usually take a pair of square-nose pliers and grasp the nut in the middle (around the D and G string slots), and gently rock it back and forth until the glue bond breaks. SX is notorious for using too much glue in the nut slots, and I usually have to cut the nut down the middle (lengthwise) with a razor saw, and knock the bits out using a small jewler's screwdriver as a chisel. Let's hope you don't have to go to those extremes.

If I were a betting man, I'd bet that nut slot is flat. I don't recall ever seeing an arched nut slot on an import guitar.

Thank you, Mossman, you're a treasure trove of knowledge

[Gear_Junky]

If I were a betting man, I'd bet that nut slot is flat. I don't recall ever seeing an arched nut slot on an import guitar.

Thank you, I ordered a black TUSQ nut, seems it should be a drop in.

One more question: what cap value do you recommend for a "classic" (vintage, whatever) telecaster? And what wiring scheme (i.e. 50's vs. 60's vs. modern). I did some reading and I don't think I want modern. I will be selecting "vintage" spec pickups (i.e. alnico and not hot). Thank you.

[Mossman]

If I were a betting man, I'd bet that nut slot is flat. I don't recall ever seeing an arched nut slot on an import guitar.

Thank you, I ordered a black TUSQ nut, seems it should be a drop in.

One more question: what cap value do you recommend for a "classic" (vintage, whatever) telecaster? And what wiring scheme (i.e. 50's vs. 60's vs. modern). I did some reading and I don't think I want modern. I will be selecting "vintage" spec pickups (i.e. alnico and not hot). Thank you.

Those nuts can be used on either flat or curved slots. There's a tab on the bottom that you can beak off if you have a curved slot.

Typically a .047 cap is used in a Tele, and with single-coil pickups in general (.022 is used with humbuckers... typically).

[nomadh]

Alright, I'm not a photographer, so pics are low-fi. It arrived a few days ago and I was pondering whether to keep it, due to a few glue smudges, but after a two-attempt of a chat with GC customer service they made me an offer I accepted to keep it.

It's definitely more "orange" in some lighting than "butterscotch" and certainly far from "TV yellow". But I think I can embrace the orange guitar look. Especially if I can find a lazy way to tint the neck in similar shade.

Very nice. I think of it as modern bsb. or poly bsb. I like it. I as also put off by the bright maple neck as first but it didnt take me long to really like the anachronistic combo of aged body and bright new neck. Now I think I'd be a bit sad to see it go if my neck aged away and I like relics and aged finishes.
Nice neck grain too.

[Gear_Junky]

Now I think I'd be a bit sad to see it go if my neck aged away and I like relics and aged finishes.
Nice neck grain too.

I would want the neck to just age from light exposure, I wounder if it will. I had a couple of acoustics with natural spruce top and they both aged nicely, despite glossy poly finish. I wonder if maple does that. Then maybe I don't have to

[Gear_Junky]

Those nuts can be used on either flat or curved slots. There's a tab on the bottom that you can beak off if you have a curved slot.

Ok, so I finally managed to get the stock nut out. Took a LOT of persuasion. I have a hickory drum stick with a cut-off pointy part, so I used it to hammer the nut (gently) back and forth. This is not advised where fretboard is a separate layer (i.e. rosewood), but on this guitar it's a one-piece maple neck, so I probably wasn't going to break that little part of it in front of the nut. Funny how once the nut is out, it doesn't look like there was much glue.

Anyway, just to document, I ended up ordering this one: Black TUSQ XL Flat Bottom 42mm, PT-5042-00. There should also be a white TUSQ counterpart. Yes, the slot is flat on the bottom. I may need to shave just a touch off the bottom of the nut, but it's almost perfect - width, string spacing, height, thickness, all is good. The extra height (perhaps 1/32", if that), is for adjustment. This is the exact nut for these guitars.

[Mossman]

Funny how once the nut is out, it doesn't look like there was much glue.

Maybe yours didn't have a lot of glue, but was just a tight fit. With SX nuts, the amount of glue used is evident, and I've never been able to get any of them out in one piece!

This is not advised where fretboard is a separate layer (i.e. rosewood), but on this guitar it's a one-piece maple neck

You wouldn't have to worry even if it had a separate fretboard glued on. There is no way you could generate enough shearing force to break the glue bond between the fretboard and the neck by tapping on the nut. That shit's forever, until you heat it and melt the glue.

Anyway, just to document, I ended up ordering this one: Black TUSQ XL Flat Bottom 42mm, PT-5042-00. There should also be a white TUSQ counterpart. Yes, the slot is flat on the bottom. I may need to shave just a touch off the bottom of the nut, but it's almost perfect - width, string spacing, height, thickness, all is good. The extra height (perhaps 1/32", if that), is for adjustment. This is the exact nut for these guitars.

It's not unusual to have to do a little sanding on the bottom and/or sides of a nut to make it fit. I'd rather sand down the bottom of the nut for string height than deepen individual string slots. Make sure you don't have any sharp notes at the first fret before gluing the nut in.

[Gear_Junky]

Actually I meant the risk of breaking the little piece of fretboard in front of the nut (when fretboard is separate), as in this pic. In my case it couldn't (probably) happen:

[Tiga]

That guitar looks great for what you paid for it. How do you like the neck? Also does anyone know if the neck pocket is Fender spec?

[Gear_Junky]

That guitar looks great for what you paid for it. How do you like the neck? Also does anyone know if the neck pocket is Fender spec?

I haven't noticed anything too weird about the neck, I'm not the type to be sensitive to neck profile. All frets seem to play ok. Jury is still out, though. I want to wait for new strings to really pass judgement. And it needs the frets polished. I also noticed that the satin poly finish can be buffed to a nice glossy sheen. I think I might do that on the fretboard and headstock (not the back).

Not sure about the neck pocket spec, if I remove it, I'll measure.

[Gear_Junky]

Pickups finally came in, so it was time to take off the crappy strings and get to work. I thought I'd take a few pics along the way to document what is stock.

Ceramic pickups, mini pots and box switch - nothing surprising there.

Bridge pickup cavity is not painted with shielding paint. What's worse is that the "shielding paint" elsewhere has zero continuity when checked with a multimeter. I even poked the same blob of paint with the 2 probes within a few millimeters of each other - NOTHING. Yet it's chalky enough as to prevent the copper foil from sticking. I decided to leave it be for now, lined the pickguard and the bridge cavity (forgot to take that photo) and maybe will use a braided wire casing to put around the "hot" lead of the neck pickup.

[Gear_Junky]

Neck/body joint is pretty tight, no complaints there. The body wood definitely feels softer, almost moist, like freshly cut timber or maybe wood that pallets are made from (those are made from pine, I guess). Compared to the bass that I'm working on an obvious difference. But the thick polyurethane protects it well. I managed to accidentally bump it against furniture here and there and there are no dents.