Generally a glued bond is stronger than the wood around it. I am sure you'll be OK.deeaa wrote: ↑Sat Jun 15, 2024 12:15 am While preparing to refinish a guitar of mine I noticed it had cracked badly at the body both sides of the neck.
I don't know whether it'll be fine really...I drilled 4 small holes deep in the crack and injected Titebond, and clamped it. Soon will open and see if it worked.
It may have been cracked for a while already...the strings on it pulls the crack shut so I only noticed it when I was spraying on the first layer of base coat filler.
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Whats on your work bench?
- Rollin Hand
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"I'm not a sore loser. It's just that I prefer to win, and when I don't, I get furious."
- Ron Swanson
- Ron Swanson
Yeah, seems solid now. Just gave it the first coat of filler spray, then final sand and final filler and tomorrow I can color it - white this time.
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Grunge lives!
Real name: Antti Heikkinen Location: Finland
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Grunge lives!
Real name: Antti Heikkinen Location: Finland
Web presences:
https://www.facebook.com/mosfite/
https://www.youtube.com/@Mosfite
http://www.mosfite.com (redirects to Google site)
- Rollin Hand
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Did some work on the Flame guitar this week. Once the tuner was unstuck, I changed the strings and adjusted the trem springs to have more tension -- with three springs, they barely stayed in if I pulled up on the bar.
I also move the ground wire from one of the spring hooks to the body of the spring claw. Worst soldering job ever! I sanded the spot and used flux, but it gave me trouble right up until it didn't.
I also put in black pickup ring screws, and my usual stainless neck screws.
Remaining items: the pot moves a little bit, so I need to sort that, and the intonation is so far off it's a couple of streets south of where I live. Always a treat on a Floyd, but will hopefully be worth the work. She stays in tune perfectly.
And I might be developing a taste for having the last 4 frets scalloped. It makes everything easier in the weedly section of the board..
I also move the ground wire from one of the spring hooks to the body of the spring claw. Worst soldering job ever! I sanded the spot and used flux, but it gave me trouble right up until it didn't.
I also put in black pickup ring screws, and my usual stainless neck screws.
Remaining items: the pot moves a little bit, so I need to sort that, and the intonation is so far off it's a couple of streets south of where I live. Always a treat on a Floyd, but will hopefully be worth the work. She stays in tune perfectly.
And I might be developing a taste for having the last 4 frets scalloped. It makes everything easier in the weedly section of the board..
"I'm not a sore loser. It's just that I prefer to win, and when I don't, I get furious."
- Ron Swanson
- Ron Swanson
You know how all the kids are wearing priest and sabbath shirts ironically?
Soon some of us GenXers and boomers will be able to fight back
Soon some of us GenXers and boomers will be able to fight back
Endless source of eye-rolling dad jokes, aspiring empty-nester, custom strap-maker https://reverb.com/ca/shop/well-hung-guitar-accessories
Made this one quick.
Small amps were at one time intercoms. Got 3 of them to mod. Widow maker style with a isolation transformer on the back. 3 watts on a good day, 4" speaker inside. Gutted and made into a Magnatone . I bet these will sell to harmonica players.
Small amps were at one time intercoms. Got 3 of them to mod. Widow maker style with a isolation transformer on the back. 3 watts on a good day, 4" speaker inside. Gutted and made into a Magnatone . I bet these will sell to harmonica players.
AGF refugee
Put a tiny little kill switch in the Zach Myer PRS SE. For the moment it just replaced the bridge tone but I think I want to i move it to the bridge volume (PRE) spot and modify the neck tone to be a master tone and either put it where the button is now and maybe move the bridge volume to the Gibson spot
To switch to master tone is easiest to just disconnect from neck volume pot and hook live from switch to live on button?
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To switch to master tone is easiest to just disconnect from neck volume pot and hook live from switch to live on button?
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I've never seen it done with that feature but wouldn't a push/pull (or even better, a push/push) pot work as well and eliminate the need for drilling a hole?voodoorat wrote: ↑Thu Nov 14, 2024 5:28 pm Put a tiny little kill switch in the Zach Myer PRS SE. For the moment it just replaced the bridge tone but I think I want to i move it to the bridge volume (PRE) spot and modify the neck tone to be a master tone and either put it where the button is now and maybe move the bridge volume to the Gibson spot
To switch to master tone is easiest to just disconnect from neck volume pot and hook live from switch to live on button?
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Delightful mix of insolence, arrogance and narcissism
Proud RINO trapped in a heavy metal chassis
Growing up, only kid in the neighborhood with an Uncle Ahkbar
Proud RINO trapped in a heavy metal chassis
Growing up, only kid in the neighborhood with an Uncle Ahkbar
sorry no new holes--i swapped the bridge tone out for the button (they are in weird positions on prs guitars) and i want to modify the other (neck) tone to be a master tone. i also want to rearrange the knobs to be a little more ergonomic, where the two volumes are like they are on les pauls and the master tone is where that button is and the button is where the bridge volume currently is (close to and behind the bridge). i am not sure how to orchestrate a master tone but it seems like it should be easy enough.tobijohn wrote: ↑Thu Nov 14, 2024 7:33 pmI've never seen it done with that feature but wouldn't a push/pull (or even better, a push/push) pot work as well and eliminate the need for drilling a hole?voodoorat wrote: ↑Thu Nov 14, 2024 5:28 pm Put a tiny little kill switch in the Zach Myer PRS SE. For the moment it just replaced the bridge tone but I think I want to i move it to the bridge volume (PRE) spot and modify the neck tone to be a master tone and either put it where the button is now and maybe move the bridge volume to the Gibson spot
To switch to master tone is easiest to just disconnect from neck volume pot and hook live from switch to live on button?
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the other tone pot is sitting in a box with the knob, etc, don't really need it if i have a master tone.
Okay good that’s pretty much how I figured it, should be easy enough whenever my motivation overcomes my inherent laziness. Thanks!tobijohn wrote:Whoops, misread your post, sorry. The Explorer and V have that configuration. Here's a diagram from Guitar Electronics:
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Done!tobijohn wrote:Whoops, misread your post, sorry. The Explorer and V have that configuration. Here's a diagram from Guitar Electronics:
I moved the two volume pots to the same spot they are on Les Paul’s, converted the other pot to a master tone and moved it to the furthest back hole, and moved the kill switch button to the position closer to the bridge. Looks pretty much the same but it’s better now.
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Some mostly cosmetic mods on the Fender Blacktop.
- Mirrored pickguard (as a tribute to Phil Lynott)
- Different knobs (because I had them sitting around and why not)
- Shorter saddle setscrews. This was the only really functional mod, and it did not work quite as well as I'd hoped although it was at least a partial win. I got the MonsterBolts M3 6mm and 8mm combination set, which comes with four 8mm screws and six 6mm screws, and it turned out that the 6mm screws are only just barely long enough for the outer saddles (at least where I have the action set). So I ended up using 6mm for the high and low E strings, 8mm for the A and B strings, and the original screws for the D and G strings. Still an improvement. I might yet get the 10mm screw set and replace the central four.