Whats on your work bench?

[honyock]

Just picked up a Silver Stripe Peavey Bandit 112 on the cheap. Needs a couple pots with broken shafts replaced, but even after than it was 1/2 as much as the cheapest for sale I've found.

Need to figure out who sells the tiny shaft pots and some knobs to match.

It sounds huge and yet weighs next to nothing. Just sold my Basic 112 Peavey bass amp of a similar vintage for twice what I paid.

2nd decent Shopgoodwill auction I've won thanks to the local pickup only clause.

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

Scored a few Peavey Bandits from Goodwill pickup only , a friend still gigs with one of them .
Some parts used by Peavey's could be common , here is a link to a recent amp parts post.
viewtopic.php?p=40092#p40092

I found a place selling the OE pots, but at $10/ea, I think I will make a regular 16mm pot work with some leads added on for the broken ones. I can probably source all 3 I need for like $5 off eBay or Amazon.

https://britishaudio.com/collections/pe ... r-71190515

The whole set is like $100...I'll use this to know what pot is for what thing

https://www.tubeampdoctor.com/en/pot-se ... bandit-112

image.png

Well, I found a schematic, figured out which pots I needed and made an order. Going to fire up my solder sucker this weekend and get the PCB ready. Peavey did make these very easy to work on. everything unplugs and other than all the jack nuts and pot nuts, there is like 4 screws holding the chassis in place. The huge widely space PCB is going to be nice and easy to work on.

Seems Peavey has raised their prices by 100% per the one site I found all their parts listings.

I did find a place with a couple of the 1meg audio tapers I need at a decent price, but unbranded equivalents were about half the price so I just decided to grab those. Will just need to use some random smooth 1/4 shaft knobs I have.

[redman]

Those are awesome little amps I like Peavey gear we used to use CS800 in our PA rig I still have 3 of them they're great power amps just very heavy.
Congrats

[redman]

I got totally side tracked by @honyock's Bandit I do that with gear I really like anyway I forgot why I came to this thread my Yamaha LL26 didn't have a pickup. I didn't want to cut a hole in the side for a control panel but I wanted a volume control so after looking at my options I bought a DeArmond Tone Boss a sound hole mount w/volume control just under $100 and came with an end pin. It sounds really good and I recommend it highly. Oh yea it looks good for a sound hole mount.

[mozz]

Beware on those Peavey and other brand circuit boards, you overheat the traces and they will lift right off the circuit board.

[mickey]

Beware on those Peavey and other brand circuit boards, you overheat the traces and they will lift right off the circuit board.

Hartly Peavy is an asshole!
We were stationed together in 1968 at Keesler AFB Biloxi MS and he was an asshole then.
From everything I've seen since, he has not improved any.

[tobijohn]

Hartly Peavy is an asshole!
We were stationed together in 1968 at Keesler AFB Biloxi MS and he was an asshole then.
From everything I've seen since, he has not improved any.

I've heard he and Fred Gretsch are pretty tight...

[Spike]

Left is before, right is after. Went from MIM to AM.

I dig it.

[honyock]

Beware on those Peavey and other brand circuit boards, you overheat the traces and they will lift right off the circuit board.

yeah the board does feel pretty flimsy

[Partscaster]

Left is before, right is after. Went from MIM to AM.
2835AE81-C0B3-4811-A5A1-A3A67ABD050D.jpeg
I dig it.

I like it, too.
Looks more Johnny Cash.

[Rollin Hand]

Well...that was a fun start.

Decided to make a run at changing the pickups on my Watson Wolfgang copy to the Warmans I bought a short time a go. Easy, right? Just remove one, wire in the new, then wire in the other, then repeat! No concerns at all!

Wrong.

Wolfgang wiring means you wire the pickups to the switch on the upper horn, then to the volume and tone. The wire for the bridge pickup was too short by about an inch. The neck pickup, due to needing to be flipped to maintain the right colour alignment, had way, way, way too much wire. So, I cut off the neck wire and added it to the bridge wire. This raises to problem of shorts and the like, so I went back to an old trick of my dad's, which is to use silicone to seal the splices.

I'll seal it up with heat shrink when it is dry.

I also applied foam to the cavity. The previous stuff was a hard foam, and it means dust everywhere. I had some stuff left over from an electronics purchase that should work well.

Now I wait. So much for a quick swap.

[tobijohn]

... This raises to problem of shorts and the like, so I went back to an old trick of my dad's, which is to use silicone to seal the splices.

I'll seal it up with heat shrink when it is dry.

When it comes to wiring guitars, it seems nothing ever goes according to plan, no matter how simple it's supposed to be.

Your trevails reminded me that I want to try some of that plasticized rubber dip for tool handles on wiring splices. It would especially come in handy when extending four conductor pickups leads. Unless you splice the individual wires at different intervals in the length, you end up with something that looks like a boa after it swallowed a mouse and usually is difficult/impossible to get through the passage from the pickup rout into the control cavity: It can be a little pricey, but one can looks like it would last forever, and It dries a lot faster than normal silicone too:

www.amazon.com/Rubberized-Plastic-Coati ... B000VS2HMK

[BatUtilityBelt]

Your trevails reminded me that I want to try some of that plasticized rubber dip for tool handles on wiring splices. It would especially come in handy when extending four conductor pickups leads. Unless you splice the individual wires at different intervals in the length, you end up with something that looks like a boa after it swallowed a mouse and usually is difficult/impossible to get through the passage from the pickup rout into the control cavity: It can be a little pricey, but one can looks like it would last forever, and It dries a lot faster than normal silicone too

www.amazon.com/Rubberized-Plastic-Coati ... B000VS2HMK

I've used that stuff from time to time. It has a lot of good purposes. I even used it to turn a white pickup switch cover black when I didn't have a black one. As for lasting forever though, my experience is that it won't. I'd bet since it is air cured, they can it with nitrogen before sealing it. Once you open it, you are on a timer and it will cure in the can. Maybe there's a spray version though.

[tobijohn]

I've used that stuff from time to time. It has a lot of good purposes. I even used it to turn a white pickup switch cover black when I didn't have a black one. As for lasting forever though, my experience is that it won't. I'd bet since it is air cured, they can it with nitrogen before sealing it. Once you open it, you are on a timer and it will cure in the can. Maybe there's a spray version though.

Drying out after the first use was one of my concerns. I don't know if a spray version would work too well for the individual 24awg wires in a four-conductor pickup lead though...

[tobijohn]

maybe @Rollin Hand 's dear old dad had the right idea. This stuff dries in thirty minutes, I guess I could live with that. It could also be used to attach pickup covers too:

www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-31310-All-Purpo ... r=8-2&th=1

[jtcnj]

I usually check for the right size shrink tubing, slide it on, then twist the wires together in-line and solder them.

not my pic, just to show the wire twisted in line, not side by side like for a wire nut.

image.png (36.02 KiB) Viewed 1672 times

[tobijohn]

I usually check for the right size shrink tubing, slide it on, then twist the wires together in-line and solder them.

not my pic, just to show the wire twisted in line, not side by side like for a wire nut.

image.png

That will work for one core wire with an insulator, but I have a hard time conceptuallizing how to do it with four core wire unless you first strip all the outer insulator off the entire length of the extension. Then you have four really long loose strands

[mickey]

I usually check for the right size shrink tubing, slide it on, then twist the wires together in-line and solder them.

not my pic, just to show the wire twisted in line, not side by side like for a wire nut.

image.png

That will work for one core wire with an insulator, but I have a hard time conceptuallizing how to do it with four core wire unless you first strip all the outer insulator off the entire length of the extension. Then you have four really long loose strands

Straight answer= TWO different sizes of shrink wrap tubing.
The larger covers the total spice.
The smaller covers each individual splice.
Make sense?
I've done it many times.

[BatUtilityBelt]

As I was just doing this, I remembered it applies to this conversation. Sometimes I'll use a crimp connector (wrong) to splice.

I'm literally doing this right now for a piezo pickup replacement.

[tobijohn]

That will work for one core wire with an insulator, but I have a hard time conceptuallizing how to do it with four core wire unless you first strip all the outer insulator off the entire length of the extension. Then you have four really long loose strands

Straight answer= TWO different sizes of shrink wrap tubing.
The larger covers the total spice.
The smaller covers each individual splice.
Make sense?
I've done it many times.

That occurred to me right after I posted, you just need a piece of the outer shrink wrap tubing long enough to cover the length of the extension. I'm sure it's available although most of the stuff I've seen comes in precut pieces about an inch or so long

[mickey]

That will work for one core wire with an insulator, but I have a hard time conceptuallizing how to do it with four core wire unless you first strip all the outer insulator off the entire length of the extension. Then you have four really long loose strands

Straight answer= TWO different sizes of shrink wrap tubing.
The larger covers the total spice.
The smaller covers each individual splice.
Make sense?
I've done it many times.

That occurred to me right after I posted, you just need a piece of the outer shrink wrap tubing long enough to cover the length of the extension. I'm sure it's available although most of the stuff I've seen comes in precut pieces about an inch or so long

I've always bought shrink wrap in 2 or 3 foot long pieces.

[Rollin Hand]

Well, I only have double walled waterproof stuff handy. Even then, with 4 wires plus the ground soldered, you're looking at a thick splice, and I have to feed it through a couple of holes to get to the switch.

I am going to get some of the thinner stuff tomorrow, I hope.

EDIT: I have more than 500 pieces of tubing in various sizes and colours coming from Amazon tomorrow. I am covered, as will be my wires.

[Rollin Hand]

Applied some of the magic sauce....

....to the odly only partially shielded switch cavity on ol' Watson.

[redman]

I always keep new wire on hand and usually just pull in new wire and I wire all the electronics possible prior to installing.

[tobijohn]

I always keep new wire on hand and usually just pull in new wire and I wire all the electronics possible prior to installing.

Another 50s wiring fan, me too. I've got to start slipping heat shrink over the cap leads. I'm getting tired of going back in and bending them out of the way after they short out against something...

[redman]

I always keep new wire on hand and usually just pull in new wire and I wire all the electronics possible prior to installing.

Another 50s wiring fan, me too. I've got to start slipping heat shrink over the cap leads. I'm getting tired ofgoing back in and bending them out of the way after they short out against something...

@tobijohn That struck me as hilarious I have gotten to where I make double sure I don't have anything even close to touching anything that can cause problems. I guess why I thought it was so funny because when I started working on guitars I can't tell you how many times I had to take cavity covers or loaded pickguards' back off after a repair to see what was touching.