Y'ever screw up?

[Rollin Hand]

This week, my Watson Wolfgang copy got the best of me. I had put on a 43mm nut that was very clearly more than 43mm wide (overhangs on boths sides!). So, I thought "buy nice, or buy twice!" and nabbed a Gotoh nut.

Today I installed it and.....you know you really should check the radius before plopping down the cash. The Gotoh nut is way too flat, resulting in very high action on the outer strings.

So, now I have to choose between the original, crappy nut, the too wide nut, or eating another $35-$45 to buy another decent nut (FR1000/Special nut, after shipping).

D'oh!

[mozz]

There used to be a chart on the Floyd rose website that had all the dimensions and told you which model was the correct one. Even a aftermarker nut should have some specs.
Here is the chart.

[Rollin Hand]

Oh, I know all that. I just thought the fretboard radius was flatter than it is. Gotoh nuts use a roughly 16-inch radius, where a Floyd R3 is 12. The guitar must be around a 12 as well.

I actually have a Floyd R4 nut around, but that's a 10- inch radius.

[mozz]

Yup, went through that before. Bought one then found out it didn't fit properly. So it was measure twice and make sure it's right before i order. Finally got the right one. I think some give you shims? Then i learned to drill pilot holes in maple necks, tough wood, you may snap off screw heads, don't ask me how i know.

[Partscaster]

Trace the arc and sand to fit?

[Rollin Hand]

Trace the arc and sand to fit?

Hard to re-radius a hardened steel Floyd-style nut. And Floyd nuts sit on a flat shelf.

[Partscaster]

Trace the arc and sand to fit?

Hard to re-radius a hardened steel Floyd-style nut. And Floyd nuts sit on a flat shelf.

Ooh. I missed that part.

Are nut slots factory set?
My mind now goes to hack job with a grinder wheel for getting the end, bottom sides, at a height where slots make sense.

[Rollin Hand]

Trace the arc and sand to fit?

Hard to re-radius a hardened steel Floyd-style nut. And Floyd nuts sit on a flat shelf.

Ooh. I missed that part.

Are nut slots factory set?
My mind now goes to hack job with a grinder wheel for getting the end, bottom sides, at a height where slots make sense.

They are cast/machined into the base, which is the same radius as the slots. That's so the strings sit cleanly on the base and the pads lock them down. If you're like me and bought the wrong radius nut, it's really just easier to replace.

[sabasgr68]

Oh Yes, I have screwed up on several things in the past, and haven´t stopped yet... I know the feeling...

[Rollin Hand]

At any rate, bit the bullet and a brand new Schaller nut (R3, 12-inch radius) is on its way.

[mickey]

I was married for a few months shy of 50 years.
So I got told nearly every day for almost fifty years that I was screwing up!!!!

[RiverDog]

I was married for a few months shy of 50 years.
So I got told nearly every day for almost fifty years that I was screwing up!!!!

I feel this. Going on 30 years of wedded bliss myself this December. Yep, I feel this.

[andrewsrea]

This week, my Watson Wolfgang copy got the best of me. I had put on a 43mm nut that was very clearly more than 43mm wide (overhangs on boths sides!). So, I thought "buy nice, or buy twice!" and nabbed a Gotoh nut.

Today I installed it and.....you know you really should check the radius before plopping down the cash. The Gotoh nut is way too flat, resulting in very high action on the outer strings.

So, now I have to choose between the original, crappy nut, the too wide nut, or eating another $35-$45 to buy another decent nut (FR1000/Special nut, after shipping).

D'oh!

You can get a nut shaped to your radius very simply, by using sticky backed 220 grit sand paper. You stick it to the fretboard between where the nut goes and the 1st fret. Then paint the bottom of the nut using a black sharpie and then carefully sand the bottom of the nut acrtoss the radius, until the black can only be seen on the fringes of the nut.

Works every time for me.

[Rollin Hand]

This week, my Watson Wolfgang copy got the best of me. I had put on a 43mm nut that was very clearly more than 43mm wide (overhangs on boths sides!). So, I thought "buy nice, or buy twice!" and nabbed a Gotoh nut.

Today I installed it and.....you know you really should check the radius before plopping down the cash. The Gotoh nut is way too flat, resulting in very high action on the outer strings.

So, now I have to choose between the original, crappy nut, the too wide nut, or eating another $35-$45 to buy another decent nut (FR1000/Special nut, after shipping).

D'oh!

You can get a nut shaped to your radius very simply, by using sticky backed 220 grit sand paper. You stick it to the fretboard between where the nut goes and the 1st fret. Then paint the bottom of the nut using a black sharpie and then carefully sand the bottom of the nut acrtoss the radius, until the black can only be seen on the fringes of the nut.

Works every time for me.

Ever done it on a hardened steel nut like this?



Not so simple.

[andrewsrea]

This week, my Watson Wolfgang copy got the best of me. I had put on a 43mm nut that was very clearly more than 43mm wide (overhangs on boths sides!). So, I thought "buy nice, or buy twice!" and nabbed a Gotoh nut.

Today I installed it and.....you know you really should check the radius before plopping down the cash. The Gotoh nut is way too flat, resulting in very high action on the outer strings.

So, now I have to choose between the original, crappy nut, the too wide nut, or eating another $35-$45 to buy another decent nut (FR1000/Special nut, after shipping).

D'oh!

You can get a nut shaped to your radius very simply, by using sticky backed 220 grit sand paper. You stick it to the fretboard between where the nut goes and the 1st fret. Then paint the bottom of the nut using a black sharpie and then carefully sand the bottom of the nut acrtoss the radius, until the black can only be seen on the fringes of the nut.

Works every time for me.

Ever done it on a hardened steel nut like this?



Not so simple.

I did. The wrong way was first. I changed the radius of the neck where the nut goes. Scrap one neck.

The next time: With the help of a music store owner, I bought a locking nut made for the radius of the fretboard.

[Rollin Hand]

You can get a nut shaped to your radius very simply, by using sticky backed 220 grit sand paper. You stick it to the fretboard between where the nut goes and the 1st fret. Then paint the bottom of the nut using a black sharpie and then carefully sand the bottom of the nut acrtoss the radius, until the black can only be seen on the fringes of the nut.

Works every time for me.

Ever done it on a hardened steel nut like this?



Not so simple.

I did. The wrong way was first. I changed the radius of the neck where the nut goes. Scrap one neck.

The next time: With the help of a music store owner, I bought a locking nut made for the radius of the fretboard.

Exactly. And that's why I have another on the way. Oddly enough, it was cheapest way to get an actual GOOD locking nut in the right radius was to buy a Schaller from Germany. I mean, judging by the anticipated delivery date, it's going to make its own way here by canoe, but still....

Adding to the fun: the nut on my EVH Striped series is already showing grooves from the strings. Maybe the Schaller goes on it, while the 1000/Special nut from the Striped series goes on the Watson.