A Guitar And Gear Support Forum

I have a 83 Gibson LP Studio that's been with me for over 30 years I bought it used in 88 or 89 for $600. That guitar has been on every stage that I have ever since and has been a workhorse. Some things about the guitar that i did not know when I bought it one was that 1983 was the first year of the Studio line and two it came from the factory with Tim Shaw PAF pups. All I knew was it played well and had awesome tone for $600 and I had $600. Well over the years the frets wore out and they needed replaced I have never done refret work and didn't want to start with my old friend. So I sent it to a local guy and had medium jumbo SS frets installed and he did a fantastic job.

Awesome. I've already decided that whatever guitars I have refretted will get SS, period. The tough part of the decision for me would be trusting the luthier without any prior experience. I haven't needed a luthier yet, but every tech I've ever gone to has given me some reason to not return. Local reputation matters there for sure.

Make sure you Tim Shaws are still installed I will go with the SS as well, but I have a feeling will cross the rainbow bridge before I wear out my frets. Maybe my Strat, but I could always just buy a neck for that. I also like my nibs so if I were to have one of my Traditonals refret they would have to have the nibs.

^ What Sinster said.

It was different when I had one guitar, was playing almost every night and was gigging on the weekends. Now that I am back at 27 guitars and a bass, that is unlikely. Plus, I can do fret leveling, crowning and replacement. I also like the sound of a quality nickel fret and find SS a little 'ticky' (percussive?). I often use DR Pure Nickel strings, which would be seriously worn in a couple of playing's on SS frets.

I will not install or work on SS and recommend finding someone who is an expert at SS, if you are considering it. Since SS destroys fret tools, you cannot rely on the same techniques to get them playing correct. Fingerboard needs to be super-straight, because you want to rely on just installing the frets at their stock height, not the leveling and crowning to achieve playability.