Flat frets. Big issue?

[sabasgr68]

Found this:

"For a fret to function properly, it must have a domed crown. If the crown is flat, as in Fig. 3, it will cause string rattle and intonation issues. Much like dents and pits, if the fret has a flat crown and is too short, it will need to be replaced".

and this:

"What happens if frets are flat?

These frets are so flat they will cause a light buzz and/or a dull, "fuzzy" tone. Even frets that are not as wide and flat as these can cause troubles. Believe it or not, the string can rattle on the flat portion of the fret just ahead of your fretting finger".

I believe I´m starting to experience sound issues because of some fret wear. Most noticeable in fret 17, when bending. You´ll see some pics below (yellow areas show less wear or no wear at all). No need to tell it´s the Agile.

I asked here in Caracas. $130 for re-crowning and polishing (general maintenance and calibration included). No way I can do it.

Have you had to re-fret or re-crown the frets on your guitar(s)?

Pics:

[andrewsrea]

Inconsistent fret wear will result in intonation problems and sometimes fret buzz. Some players never venture past cowboy chords and some never venture past the 12th fret. If you are one of those, then saddle adjustments and attention to the truss rod can take care of intonation and buzz in the areas you frequent, leaving the ones you do not out of tune.

There is lots of 'meat' on those frets and they can be leveled and crowned at least one time, maybe two depending on how you prefer feeling the fretboard, before needing to be replaced. Minimum tools required for this are: an 18" straight edge, a fretboard straight edge (has the notches for the frets), a 6" fret level file, a dressing file (has rounded and smooth edges, so as not to cut into your fingerboard), a black sharpie, masking tape, a razor or Exacto knife for trimming the tape, fret erasers or 000 steel wool, a cotton cloth and a little Jewler's rouge or rubbing compound, or toothpaste (for polishing the frets). A crowning file is very useful.

I remove the strings, the nut, loosen the truss rod until the neck is flat with the fretboard straight edge. Mask off the fretboard in between the frets and anywhere that you could accidentally slip and mar the finish. Mark the tops of the frets with the Sharpie marker. Level file until the last little bit of marker is seen on the lowest frets, being deliberate on moving around and leveling evenly. To crown with a dressing file, with the rounded edge on the fretboard, file the fret starting at a 45-degree angle to the top of the fret and roll it to a shallower angle. Like a mirror opposite, do the same for the other side of the fret. I like to go headstock side first, then bridge side of the fret. File off the burrs of the fret ends with the dressing file, but don't get too aggressive as you do not want your strings falling off due to lack of fret space. After you've crowned all frets, use the fret erasers or steel wool in the same fashion as the crowing process (you are polishing at this point. Rub the Jeweler's rouge, rubbing compound or toothpaste on a piece of cotton cloth and rub into the frets. Wipe dry with a clean cotton cloth.

Tighten the truss a little, put the nut back on with a little smear of white glue, re-string and tune. Adjust the truss to have 0.5mm to 1mm space at the 7th fret, using the straight edge and making sure you tune as you adjust the truss. If the truss is very tight, then detune - adjust and retune. Set the action then intonation (bridge saddles: closest to the headstock = sharp and farter = flat). Enjoy!

[tonebender]

I have never had a guitar re-fretted but I have re-crowned the frets on a few through the years. The tools to accomplish a re-crown job are not too expensive. If you PM me your address I will send you one for Christmas. Do you get Amazon deliveries?

[sabasgr68]

Inconsistent fret wear will result in intonation problems and sometimes fret buzz. Some players never venture past cowboy chords and some never venture past the 12th fret. If you are one of those, then saddle adjustments and attention to the truss rod can take care of intonation and buzz in the areas you frequent, leaving the ones you do not out of tune.

There is lots of 'meat' on those frets and they can be leveled and crowned at least one time, maybe two depending on how you prefer feeling the fretboard, before needing to be replaced. Minimum tools required for this are: an 18" straight edge, a fretboard straight edge (has the notches for the frets), a 6" fret level file, a dressing file (has rounded and smooth edges, so as not to cut into your fingerboard), a black sharpie, masking tape, a razor or Exacto knife for trimming the tape, fret erasers or 000 steel wool, a cotton cloth and a little Jewler's rouge or rubbing compound, or toothpaste (for polishing the frets). A crowning file is very useful.

I remove the strings, the nut, loosen the truss rod until the neck is flat with the fretboard straight edge. Mask off the fretboard in between the frets and anywhere that you could accidentally slip and mar the finish. Mark the tops of the frets with the Sharpie marker. Level file until the last little bit of marker is seen on the lowest frets, being deliberate on moving around and leveling evenly. To crown with a dressing file, with the rounded edge on the fretboard, file the fret starting at a 45-degree angle to the top of the fret and roll it to a shallower angle. Like a mirror opposite, do the same for the other side of the fret. I like to go headstock side first, then bridge side of the fret. File off the burrs of the fret ends with the dressing file, but don't get too aggressive as you do not want your strings falling off due to lack of fret space. After you've crowned all frets, use the fret erasers or steel wool in the same fashion as the crowing process (you are polishing at this point. Rub the Jeweler's rouge, rubbing compound or toothpaste on a piece of cotton cloth and rub into the frets. Wipe dry with a clean cotton cloth.

Tighten the truss a little, put the nut back on with a little smear of white glue, re-string and tune. Adjust the truss to have 0.5mm to 1mm space at the 7th fret, using the straight edge and making sure you tune as you adjust the truss. If the truss is very tight, then detune - adjust and retune. Set the action then intonation (bridge saddles: closest to the headstock = sharp and farter = flat). Enjoy!

Well, looks as a doable job with the proper tools and common sense. As for the tools, there are cheap and more expensive - did a quick search in Amazon and Stewmac -. I don´t think cheap tools are advisable for this. Looks like, for the near future, I´ll have to play the Strat more, specially if I have to solo on that area of the fretboard.

Anyway, thanks for the instructions, Rob. Very clear. I´d feel up to do the job, as I like manual work.

[sabasgr68]

I have never had a guitar re-fretted but I have re-crowned the frets on a few through the years. The tools to accomplish a re-crown job are not too expensive. If you PM me your address I will send you one for Christmas. Do you get Amazon deliveries?

Oh my... You caught me offguard... Well, who doesn´t like a Christmas gift, especially an useful one?

Thanks Jeff I´ll PM you.

[BatUtilityBelt]

I think @andrewsrea covered it really well. I'd add if you can hear it, it's a problem, otherwise it's fine. But then some types of music don't mind intonation issues or a little fret buzz (not a lot). It just depends on what you do with that guitar. But if it frets out or other bad effects that impact your experience, I'd fix those.

[andrewsrea]

I think @andrewsrea covered it really well. I'd add if you can hear it, it's a problem, otherwise it's fine. But then some types of music don't mind intonation issues or a little fret buzz (not a lot). It just depends on what you do with that guitar. But if it frets out or other bad effects that impact your experience, I'd fix those.

Worthwhile add!