Wow, it's cheap enough! So will the bridge bushings on that one on Amazon fit in the holes on the HB MS-60 or do the existing holes require modification? It says it's a direct fit for MIJ Jags/Jazzmasters toohonyock wrote: ↑Thu Jun 10, 2021 2:13 pm ]I've had mine for a long time, I bought it for the 1st right Mustang I had, actually bought 2 and used the saddles on my SJM (post size was not exactly the same as the SJM so I couldn't do a drop in replacement) They are all pretty similar.
amazon.com/dp/B08FJ9F1B8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_B0XSS0HMEYPR3KR5VBPP
The adjustable saddles were nicer for the SJM with the flatter radius. I replaced the threaded saddles for these style because I was having issues with the strings moving around before I put some 13s on it.
I haven't looked what the radius is on the H-B neck to see if the fixed radius of the true Mustang saddles would work of not
Oddly the new Mustang has flush mounted bushings so that the TOM can be lowered enough to get decent action. However, the H-B TOM bridge is so rattle-y and the studs are just so loose.
PSA: New Babicz FCH Full Contact Hardware Gold Tune-O-Matic Bridge - Original Series - $100
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Proud RINO trapped in a heavy metal chassis
Growing up, only kid in the neighborhood with an Uncle Ahkbar
Proud RINO trapped in a heavy metal chassis
Growing up, only kid in the neighborhood with an Uncle Ahkbar
You gotta downsize holes to use these. The flange is almost perfect size for the hole.tobijohn wrote:Wow, it's cheap enough! So will the bridge bushings on that one on Amazon fit in the holes on the HB MS-60 or do the existing holes require modification? It says it's a direct fit for MIJ Jags/Jazzmasters toohonyock wrote: ↑Thu Jun 10, 2021 2:13 pm ]I've had mine for a long time, I bought it for the 1st right Mustang I had, actually bought 2 and used the saddles on my SJM (post size was not exactly the same as the SJM so I couldn't do a drop in replacement) They are all pretty similar.
amazon.com/dp/B08FJ9F1B8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_B0XSS0HMEYPR3KR5VBPP
The adjustable saddles were nicer for the SJM with the flatter radius. I replaced the threaded saddles for these style because I was having issues with the strings moving around before I put some 13s on it.
I haven't looked what the radius is on the H-B neck to see if the fixed radius of the true Mustang saddles would work of not
Oddly the new Mustang has flush mounted bushings so that the TOM can be lowered enough to get decent action. However, the H-B TOM bridge is so rattle-y and the studs are just so loose.
I normally insert a hard wood dowel in the body and then use my forstner bit to drill new holes the correct size for the bushings.
10 years, 2 months, and 8 days of blissful ignorance ruined by that snake in the grass Major Tom.
Thanks for all the info, I currently don't have any way to keep a drill perpendicular to the body of the guitar to ensure the proper angle so maybe I'll just throw one of those cheap roller bridges on it for the time being...
Delightful mix of insolence, arrogance and narcissism
Proud RINO trapped in a heavy metal chassis
Growing up, only kid in the neighborhood with an Uncle Ahkbar
Proud RINO trapped in a heavy metal chassis
Growing up, only kid in the neighborhood with an Uncle Ahkbar
Yeah, I have one of the Wilkinson style on my Cobain Jag and it works great. They are short enough to get good action on a regular Fender style setup.tobijohn wrote:Thanks for all the info, I currently don't have any way to keep a drill perpendicular to the body of the guitar to ensure the proper angle so maybe I'll just throw one of those cheap roller bridges on it for the time being...
10 years, 2 months, and 8 days of blissful ignorance ruined by that snake in the grass Major Tom.
- glasshand
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A drill press is the standard way to do that, but what I learned is that many inexpensive drill presses don't have a long enough "throat" to put a hole in the proper place on a guitar. (For example, this is an 8" drill, but you might find yourself needing to put a hole 8.75" from the edge of the body.) A drill guide like this one does not have the same limitation - but then, it has different limitations of its own and would probably be a giant pain to use on a carved-top guitar body.
I know exactly what you mean. I've been thinking about picking up one of the latter as I'm sure I'd get my money's worth out of it. As for the problem drilling a perpendicular hole in an archtop, what do think about a shim with the appropriate thickness and double sided tape on both sides under one side of the guide to keep it in place while you drill?glasshand wrote: ↑Thu Jun 10, 2021 6:06 pm
A drill press is the standard way to do that, but what I learned is that many inexpensive drill presses don't have a long enough "throat" to put a hole in the proper place on a guitar. (For example, this is an 8" drill, but you might find yourself needing to put a hole 8.75" from the edge of the body.) A drill guide like this one does not have the same limitation - but then, it has different limitations of its own and would probably be a giant pain to use on a carved-top guitar body.
Delightful mix of insolence, arrogance and narcissism
Proud RINO trapped in a heavy metal chassis
Growing up, only kid in the neighborhood with an Uncle Ahkbar
Proud RINO trapped in a heavy metal chassis
Growing up, only kid in the neighborhood with an Uncle Ahkbar
- glasshand
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Maybe? I'd just be worried about my ability to make the shim so that the drill was perfectly perpendicular, and for the shim to be able to sit nicely on a top that is curved in two dimensions. Another idea I had was to make a "table" wide enough to slide over the guitar and high enough to clear it, and then you just put the drill press on that and drill through a hole in the table. But really there is almost no option that does not seem like a nuisance:tobijohn wrote: ↑Thu Jun 10, 2021 6:14 pm I know exactly what you mean. I've been thinking about picking up one of the latter as I'm sure I'd get my money's worth out of it. As for the problem drilling a perpendicular hole in an archtop, what do think about a shim with the appropriate thickness and double sided tape on both sides under one side of the guide to keep it in place while you drill?
- get a big drill press
- attempt to use a drill guide on a carved top
- make some kind of shim/table/jig to allow the drill guide to sit flat and not slip
I really like the table idea and it would be much more stable too. Two 24" 1"x4"s ( or rip a piece of 1"x 6" ) and then attach them vertically with screws to a 24" square piece of 1/2" plywood along opposite edges. Drill a few holes in it with one of those bits for drilling out key holes in doors in the general area of where you'd need to re-drill anchor holes and you're good to go. It might take an hour or so to put it together but you'd never have to do it again.glasshand wrote: ↑Thu Jun 10, 2021 7:31 pm
Maybe? I'd just be worried about my ability to make the shim so that the drill was perfectly perpendicular, and for the shim to be able to sit nicely on a top that is curved in two dimensions. Another idea I had was to make a "table" wide enough to slide over the guitar and high enough to clear it, and then you just put the drill press on that and drill through a hole in the table. But really there is almost no option that does not seem like a nuisance:
- get a big drill press
- attempt to use a drill guide on a carved top
- make some kind of shim/table/jig to allow the drill guide to sit flat and not slip
Delightful mix of insolence, arrogance and narcissism
Proud RINO trapped in a heavy metal chassis
Growing up, only kid in the neighborhood with an Uncle Ahkbar
Proud RINO trapped in a heavy metal chassis
Growing up, only kid in the neighborhood with an Uncle Ahkbar
Mine was bought on eBay, best $35 and a 2 hour drive round trip I've spent.glasshand wrote:A drill press is the standard way to do that, but what I learned is that many inexpensive drill presses don't have a long enough "throat" to put a hole in the proper place on a guitar. (For example, this is an 8" drill, but you might find yourself needing to put a hole 8.75" from the edge of the body.) A drill guide like this one does not have the same limitation - but then, it has different limitations of its own and would probably be a giant pain to use on a carved-top guitar body.
Shop teacher in a small town on the other side of the mountains was upgrading the school's setup.
10 years, 2 months, and 8 days of blissful ignorance ruined by that snake in the grass Major Tom.
FYI, of possible interest is an article I stumbled across on setting those up:honyock wrote: ↑Thu Jun 10, 2021 2:13 pm ...Oddly the new Mustang has flush mounted bushings so that the TOM can be lowered enough to get decent action. However, the H-B TOM bridge is so rattle-y and the studs are just so loose. I have stripped the body bare and will be working on the retrofit this weekend. ...
https://www.premierguitar.com/diy/guita ... ster-setup
Note: You have to disable ant ad-blockers you're running to see the accompanying pictures...
Delightful mix of insolence, arrogance and narcissism
Proud RINO trapped in a heavy metal chassis
Growing up, only kid in the neighborhood with an Uncle Ahkbar
Proud RINO trapped in a heavy metal chassis
Growing up, only kid in the neighborhood with an Uncle Ahkbar